Rpm cages and A pillar gauges

[Hatermkr]

I’m looking at doing a RPM 8 point cage in my car looking to see if they will fit with gauges in a pillar. Any help would be appreciated
Picture for attention

 

[ChargerChallenger]

@Speedy!

 

[vortecd]

@Speedy!

didn't know speedy had a cage

 

[ChargerChallenger]

didn't know speedy had a cage

I’m sure he has info would be my guess and who else here besides @Marc W would be a good person or best probably .

 

[BULL]

Agree, @Marc W

 

[zhc]

If the bars obstruct or block the install of a-pillar gauges, you could instead get roll cage mounted pods or windshield mounted suction pods for gauges instead.

 

[Marc W]

My $.02….. I don’t care for the RPM setup. If you go that route for a cage, the front half is a ‘add-on’. Unless you’re an experienced welder, you will be paying to have that done. The end result will not be tight fitting and consequently half-ass in my opinion. A custom cage by one of the experienced fab shops specializing in these things can fit one that you will not even see unless you get in and look around. You can have removable door bars that do not impede in and out of the front seats. The rear seats are sacrificed with any cage. The other consideration is you absolutely should use a harness for all driving/riding in the car and the roof bars over the doors should be SFI padded.

 

[Marc W]

As far as puller mounted gauges… Z’s right. Bar mounted pods are available. Here a old pic of my trans temp gauge.

 

[zhc]

My $.02….. I don’t care for the RPM setup. If you go that route for a cage, the front half is a ‘add-on’. Unless you’re an experienced welder, you will be paying to have that done. The end result will not be tight fitting and consequently half-ass in my opinion. A custom cage by one of the experienced fab shops specializing in these things can fit one that you will not even see unless you get in and look around. You can have removable door bars that do not impede in and out of the front seats. The rear seats are sacrificed with any cage. The other consideration is you absolutely should use a harness for all driving/riding in the car and the roof bars over the doors should be SFI padded.

I have to agreed with Marc. I have a modified RPM cage in my car. In hindsight I should have gone the custom route. Now next year I’m looking at tearing it all out to redo the whole thing since I have to anyways to get something that’ll cert to 7.50.

 

[jonx96]

I have to agreed with Marc. I have a modified RPM cage in my car. In hindsight I should have gone the custom route. Now next year I’m looking at tearing it all out to redo the whole thing since I have to anyways to get something that’ll cert to 7.50.

7.50. Does that mean you are ditching the 8 speed?

 

[zhc]

7.50. Does that mean you are ditching the 8 speed?

Whether I do or do not doesn’t affect what I need to do with my chassis with how fast the car currently is. The HP90 has been really reliable for me up until this year. With how much power I’m pushing I’ve broken an input shaft earlier this year and a planetary gearset more recently. Perhaps a change is in order if it’ll bring about a little more reliability.

 

[Hatermkr]

Whether I do or do not doesn’t affect what I need to do with my chassis with how fast the car currently is. The HP90 has been really reliable for me up until this year. With how much power I’m pushing I’ve broken an input shaft earlier this year and a planetary gearset more recently. Perhaps a change is in order if it’ll bring about a little more reliability.

No fun fixing it all the time

 

[Marc W]

This is my cage when it was 8.5 cert. In street mode with the drivers side door bar out. Pretty easy to live with.

 

[jonx96]

Whether I do or do not doesn’t affect what I need to do with my chassis with how fast the car currently is. The HP90 has been really reliable for me up until this year. With how much power I’m pushing I’ve broken an input shaft earlier this year and a planetary gearset more recently. Perhaps a change is in order if it’ll bring about a little more reliability.

I was more wondering if you planned on running consistently that fast if that was the plan. I saw you went 8.1 blower only

 

[zhc]

No fun fixing it all the time

It’s been fun though when it works and it worked for most of the year as well as all the years proceeding. I can’t complain.

The worst part about breaking is the down time and waiting on parts or repair can extend that out a bit. Fortunately I keep a spare trans and motor to reduce that time a lot so I’m never really sitting idle waiting on anything but myself to find some time.

 

[Marc W]

This is the upgrade to the 7.5 cert. lol. What a difference a second makes.

 

[Hatermkr]

My $.02….. I don’t care for the RPM setup. If you go that route for a cage, the front half is a ‘add-on’. Unless you’re an experienced welder, you will be paying to have that done. The end result will not be tight fitting and consequently half-ass in my opinion. A custom cage by one of the experienced fab shops specializing in these things can fit one that you will not even see unless you get in and look around. You can have removable door bars that do not impede in and out of the front seats. The rear seats are sacrificed with any cage. The other consideration is you absolutely should use a harness for all driving/riding in the car and the roof bars over the doors should be SFI padded.

this one was fun to build took some time so maybe I will take the time to make one after Texas

 

[Marc W]

I went to the 400 for reliability. Back then there weren’t any of the super hp90’s with billet internals. Now you can go a lot further with the 8-speed but at the 7 second level, there are more advantages to the 400 than just the added strength. I’m sure Paramount will provide what Z needs in that dept. The blue car has one of theirs. Z…. If you haven’t already…. Check out the new Motion Raceworks shifter for that. I have a M&M. Up to now that has been the best. I would go with the MR now. That thing, with the billet grip and built-in air shifter is spectacular! Whatever you do… don’t get the Precision. Crap by comparison.

 

[covidcommander]

Whether I do or do not doesn’t affect what I need to do with my chassis with how fast the car currently is. The HP90 has been really reliable for me up until this year. With how much power I’m pushing I’ve broken an input shaft earlier this year and a planetary gearset more recently. Perhaps a change is in order if it’ll bring about a little more reliability.

Pics?

 

[zhc]

I went to the 400 for reliability. Back then there weren’t any of the super hp90’s with billet internals. Now you can go a lot further with the 8-speed but at the 7 second level, there are more advantages to the 400 than just the added strength. I’m sure Paramount will provide what Z needs in that dept. The blue car has one of theirs. Z…. If you haven’t already…. Check out the new Motion Raceworks shifter for that. I have a M&M. Up to now that has been the best. I would go with the MR now. That thing, with the billet grip and built-in air shifter is spectacular! Whatever you do… don’t get the Precision. Crap by comparison.

I have an M&M already in box. The Motion Raceworks one is tempting now that they have a clean neutral version out but I've been spending a lot of money lately.