DRAGRCR ONESEAT DEMON WHAT ARE THE ODDS?

[DRAGRCR]

It is aluminum? What was before and after weight? I had been thinking something like this for the front

Yes it is aluminum. I am going to say it saves 8.5 pounds. I did not do before and after weights, but I did take the rems to the recycler and he weighed them at 8 pounds even (I did not take everything, only the big pieces).

My Friend that sold me the front bumper support also makes a replacement rear. But he did not have them in stock so I cut down my stock one. This is NOT an option for the front for me since it is steel and it is more intricate and would be much harder to cut.

Here is another picture of the front that he makes. It saves 15 pounds.

 

[vortecd]

The front is a nice looking peice for nearly $500

 

[vortecd]

Yes it is aluminum. I am going to say it saves 8.5 pounds. I did not do before and after weights, but I did take the rems to the recycler and he weighed them at 8 pounds even (I did not take everything, only the big pieces).

My Friend that sold me the front bumper support also makes a replacement rear. But he did not have them in stock so I cut down my stock one. This is NOT an option for the front for me since it is steel and it is more intricate and would be much harder to cut.

Here is another picture of the front that he makes. It saves 15 pounds. View attachment 89645

How did you do the rear?

 

[TNREDEYE]

How did you do the rear?

I know... SLOWLY.

 

[DRAGRCR]

How did you do the rear?

First thing is you have to have a plan. Then you lay out your cut lines. ANd do not cut randomly or you will be scrapping the piece (unless you can weld aluminum). Sawzall off the ends. Cut round holes at all the corners and this also gives you a place to end your cuts and is stronger with less stress risers. Cut out the front with a saber saw. Cut out an access panel in the rear (needs a shorter blade). Also you have to rough cut access for the dremmel tool to reach in and cut/release that center rib. That is the final piece holding everything together. When that back piece falls out you are left with almost nothing! Shocking........

I used a sawzall, Saber Saw, and 2 different size drill motors and bits. And a nice set of Blair cutters, a die grinder with an aluminum cutter to make everything look nice, etc.....

I am going to do another one in a day or two. If you guys want I will take better pics.

 

[vortecd]

First thing is you have to have a plan. Then you lay out your cut lines. ANd do not cut randomly or you will be scrapping the piece (unless you can weld aluminum). Sawzall off the ends. Cut round holes at all the corners and this also gives you a place to end your cuts and is stronger with less stress risers. Cut out the front with a saber saw. Cut out an access panel in the rear (needs a shorter blade). Also you have to rough cut access for the dremmel tool to reach in and cut/release that center rib. That is the final piece holding everything together. When that back piece falls out you are left with almost nothing! Shocking........

I used a sawsall, Saber Saw, and 2 different size drill motors and bits. And a nice set of Blair cutters, a die grinder with an aluminum cutter to make everything look nice, etc.....

I am going to do another one in a day or two. If you guys want I will take better pics.

Thought maybe you put it on a cnc machine and made a program

More pictures are always good

 

[vortecd]

since you are doing another, weight before and after

 

[DRAGRCR]

since you are doing another, weight before and after

OK, my before weight on my scale is 10.4 pounds. My friend said his weighed 10.5 pounds so they reasonably agree. After was 2.0 pounds. His weighs 2.7 pounds but is WAY stiffer. I pushed down on my car and a car with stock bumper support and could not tell the difference. I don't think outright strength is needed in the back because you do not have the power chiller and oil cooler hanging off the ends like the front does.
.
Here is a pic of the one he sells on the rear.
.

 

[DRAGRCR]

Thought maybe you put it on a cnc machine and made a program

More pictures are always good

OK the second one I did a nicer job. Of course you learn some things. I drilled and cut some of the lightening holes before cutting the main beam down because once it's all done it is harder to clamp in a vice or hold it still on the floor. I also used a round cutter to intersect my cuts and release the 2 main pieces from each other. That was way easier than a dremmel.

THE END:

THE BEAM:
CUT LINES:
DRILLED:
CUT ACCESS TO RELEASE:
FINAL CUTS, YOU CAN ZOOM IN (ABOVE) AND SEE 3 PLACES ROUND INTERSECTING CUTS WERE MADE TO RELEASE THE 2 MAIN PIECES:
ALL DONE MADE NICE:

 

[Speedy!]

Looks nicely done, but does it pass NHTSA standards LOL?

 

[Ricky Racer]

Is there a trick to getting the rear bumper cover back on because I have been wrestling with it for a while now. It’s those little tabs on the edge that hold it on that I can’t seem to get back in place.

 

[DRAGRCR]

Is there a trick to getting the rear bumper cover back on because I have been wrestling with it for a while now. It’s those little tabs on the edge that hold it on that I can’t seem to get back in place.

Yes. On the top corner you need to bring it in from the side. You cannot go straight down. Everywhere else you just slam it on........

 

[Ricky Racer]

Yes. On the top corner you need to bring it in from the side. You cannot go straight down. Everywhere else you just slam it on........

Thanks for the help Ron, I figured out the problem was the new aluminum lightweight bumper was not fully seated inside the absorber, so I took everything apart again and repositioned the bumper as high as it could go and it slid right in.

 

[DRAGRCR]

Thanks for the help Ron, I figured out the problem was the new aluminum lightweight bumper was not fully seated inside the absorber, so I took everything apart again and repositioned the bumper as high as it could go and it slid right in.

Well, I cut down the stock support so the bumper cover slipped right on. Plus, I cut off the ends and cut off the ends of the absorber as well to match.

Dang it is clean in there. Both these cars have miles on them (11,000, 17,000) and MANY burnouts. So they were filthy and caked on rubber in the outer corners. Probably scraped 1/2 pound of rubber off them both........

All I got to say is "Don't rear end me"!

 

[Ricky Racer]

I noticed the gap between the fender flare and the bumper panel seems to be a little bit wider. Probably just my imagination .

 

[DRAGRCR]

I noticed the gap between the fender flare and the bumper panel seems to be a little bit wider. Probably just my imagination .

On my car things are still pretty tight. But on my Friends car the fender flare is not lining up good. I wonder if you pushed up on it before tightening that one screw, under the wheel well liner, if it would close that gap some. I am just too lazy to take it all back apart again. I think yours looks normal.

 

[hell on wheels]

200 mph tape

 

[DRAGRCR]

OK, so the car is 100% ready for LOD except for one thing. I had ordered a DCoxR light weight battery to put in it. Well they finally shipped it today 2 day air. So, with that battery in the car I will be 105 pounds lighter than last year. Last year my best was 9.56 @ 141 -780 da. I really hope I can get that record back with a full one seat interior. I would be extatic with a 9.47 but sometimes it is really hard to get all the stars and planets to align. With these cars one thing you have to watch is when the Power Chiller comes on (is enabled at 55 deg ambient). My other car ran 9.58 at +500 da but it was right at that point. It even affects the 60 foot by a couple hundredths. That can be confusing. Right now they are predicting 69 as a high on the 7th when I run the Mason event. So the power chiller will be on for most of that day. It might happen that morning.

.

 

[vortecd]

OK, so the car is 100% ready for LOD except for one thing. I had ordered a DCoxR light weight battery to put in it. Well they finally shipped it today 2 day air. So, with that battery in the car I will be 105 pounds lighter than last year. Last year my best was 9.56 @ 141 -780 da. I really hope I can get that record back with a full one seat interior. I would be extatic with a 9.47 but sometimes it is really hard to get all the stars and planets to align. With these cars one thing you have to watch is when the Power Chiller comes on (is enabled at 55 deg ambient). My other car ran 9.58 at +500 da but it was right at that point. It even affects the 60 foot by a couple hundredths. That can be confusing. Right now they are predicting 69 as a high on the 7th when I run the Mason event. So the power chiller will be on for most of that day. It might happen that morning.

. View attachment 91461

We all know you put the time in with testing and making the car lighter. Good luck!

 

[DRAGRCR]

OK, it has been a long challenging day. I did 4 passes in the morning and they were not giving time slips and they were not on the app. The times on the score board were valid but I did not have anyone there taking video for me. But does not matter much since you would not have the 60 foot or 1/8 mile times etc. Such a drag no time slips. They finally got that working and then I went out and got after it and the timing system had a glitch on MY run. The 20 runs before me the info was on the printer and the 20 runs after me was there and my run was just a few random numbers. It sucks because that was a seemingly amazing run. But the car was having a hiccup on the 1-2 and 2-3. Here we go again. So we did a 6 pack so 3 runs back to back. I used the HpTuners to reset the Transmission and Engine adaptives. This seemed to help but not completely. I am pretty sure it was the track prep. It's usually amazing and in a lot of respects it was but there were some aspects that were not on point. Anyhow on the 6 pack the first run was excellent, second run it had a hiccup and 3rd run it spun. So the 2nd and 3rd pass are usually the best runs by far. NOT. Then it spun the next 2 passes after that. So, now it's spinning all the time , scratch my head. Well, there was a huge oil down so a long wait. I went up with a reasonable cooldown and I went to the right lane. The oil down lane, I did not know. Then it happened. I had a record pass, as far as I know, for now anyway. But the thing is it was far from the perfect pass. The oildown was a double edge sword. It helped me hook and run great up to the point of the oil down and then the car was spinning and the Stabillity Control or loss of traction killed my mph and cost me a 9.4X run. Oh damn. Based on my research this pass was down as much as 6 MPH on the 1/4 mile speed. Oh well. Maybe I can get that ideal pass tomorrow..........