IC Chiller install & review

[Unholy707]

No, 15 challenger

I will double check but I am like 99% sure your small piece of hard line is radically different than mine is. Yours has 2 bends in it and appears to be much longer. Mine almost comes literally straight off the AC compressor with a single bend and right up into the clamp. You can almost see it in my picture but it's difficult. There is no double bend like yours and I'm well inside that valve cover bolt.

Is yours a redeye by chance?

 

[fubar569]

No, 15 challenger

Well damn.

I got some different pictures. My low side hard line is DEFINITELY different that yours. Comes right off the compressor at almost a straight 45* and right into the crimp barb. Yours is longer and with a double bend to clear all that crap. A difference in kit applications or a revision from feedback? I dunno. But I sure could use a new low side port to block to compressor inlet line/clamps with your style hard line.

 

[Unholy707]

Well damn.

I got some different pictures. My low side hard line is DEFINITELY different that yours. Comes right off the compressor at almost a straight 45* and right into the crimp barb. Yours is longer and with a double bend to clear all that crap. A difference in kit applications or a revision from feedback? I dunno. But I sure could use a new low side port to block to compressor inlet line/clamps with your style hard line.

View attachment 131967 View attachment 131968 View attachment 131969

Weird, must be a revision or something. I’d reach out and see if they have just that part, you don’t need the fitting for the compressor, just the hard line

 

[fubar569]

Weird, must be a revision or something. I’d reach out and see if they have just that part, you don’t need the fitting for the compressor, just the hard line

I'd also need some more of that hose and new clamps. The length from the low side test port to the T block would be too short with a revised hard line if that moved it further towards the front of the car. Also may need to shorten the hose that leads down towards the chiller. Minor stuff really. But yeah. I'll have to contact them at some point this spring. No problems with paying for any additional or updated parts. I just only want to break the system apart one more time before it gets hooked to a machine and deep vac'd/charged properly.

 

[Unholy707]

I'd also need some more of that hose and new clamps. The length from the low side test port to the T block would be too short with a revised hard line if that moved it further towards the front of the car. Also may need to shorten the hose that leads down towards the chiller. Minor stuff really. But yeah. I'll have to contact them at some point this spring. No problems with paying for any additional or updated parts. I just only want to break the system apart one more time before it gets hooked to a machine and deep vac'd/charged properly.

Yeah, the AC lines took me literally 30 minutes to do. They’re super simple. Just reach out and get what you need, it’s not as intimidating as it seems. I installed chiller and the plumbed coolant lines though valve/it, vacuum filled coolant, Brought it to get a/c recovered, installed ac lines, and brought it back for the charge

 

[Unholy707]

Lowe’s has a craftsman hose cutter, cuts hose flat

 

[covidcommander]

Alot of work to get the interchiller right

 

[fubar569]

Alot of work to get the interchiller right

It currently functions just fine. So I mean...it's "right"...but just uncomfortably close to and/or contacting the motor at the valve cover flange.

I could probably modify the existing line with a small tubing bender. It just needs a few extra degrees on the bend...though the revised hard line would absolutely be welcome as it looks to clear everything up front by a mile.

I'm still very happy with the performance. It would only get better by eliminating the 3 way valve and ditching the stock HX plus making sure the freon charge is on point. Mine definitely isn't and still get it into the high 30's with little effort.

 

[covidcommander]

Wondering how much it really helps in the real world? Can you feel a difference in performance ?

 

[fubar569]

Wondering how much it really helps in the real world? Can you feel a difference in performance ?

Well I had an ice box for a year and could barely keep my temps under the modified IAT2 limits imposed by my tuner. Plus hauling ice is a complete PITA.

Now I hit 2 switches and forget about it. Max about 145 at the end of a pass. Bear in mind I am spinning the piss out of a 2.4 IHI with a 2.50 pulley too.

 

[fubar569]

This is the diagram I used, set it up pretty much exactly like it. This is the “updated” diagram from IC
View attachment 114763

To add to the fire...I backtracked some of the plumbing and this is definitely not how mine is set up either. The 3 way valve is in this location but The T fitting below the IC brick is actually in the place of the 2 elbows above the factory HX. In the off position coolant flows thru the factory HX as normal. With the switch turned on it then flows thru the chiller and bumper tank bypassing the HX. An either or situation as opposed to the chiller core always being in the loop...or is it supposed to be for a reason? I dunno.

Just another way to do it apparently but could explain how I'm getting air sometimes in the hose from the chiller to bumper tank. Doesn't seem to cause an airlock situation but I can see this when you switch the valve. The coolant drains back into the tank and down into the chiller core since this hose comes from the chiller core up to the top fitting on the bumper tank and the core is lower than the tank.

 

[Unholy707]

If

To add to the fire...I backtracked some of the plumbing and this is definitely not how mine is set up either. The 3 way valve is in this location but The T fitting below the IC brick is actually in the place of the 2 elbows above the factory HX. In the off position coolant flows thru the factory HX as normal. With the switch turned on it then flows thru the chiller and bumper tank bypassing the HX. An either or situation as opposed to the chiller core always being in the loop...or is it supposed to be for a reason? I dunno.

Just another way to do it apparently but could explain how I'm getting air sometimes in the hose from the chiller to bumper tank. Doesn't seem to cause an airlock situation but I can see this when you switch the valve. The coolant drains back into the tank and down into the chiller core since this hose comes from the chiller core up to the top fitting on the bumper tank and the core is lower than the tank.

I’d like to see this, there’s no way I can think of to plumb the 3 way valve without the chiller always being in the loop

 

[Unholy707]

Alot of work to get the interchiller right

*to get any chiller system right. And it’s not bad, 3 way valve really makes the plumbing invoked

 

[covidcommander]

Well I had an ice box for a year and could barely keep my temps under the modified IAT2 limits imposed by my tuner. Plus hauling ice is a complete PITA.

Now I hit 2 switches and forget about it. Max about 145 at the end of a pass. Bear in mind I am spinning the piss out of a 2.4 IHI with a 2.50 pulley too.

*to get any chiller system right. And it’s not bad, 3 way valve really makes the plumbing invoked

Yeah, what I meant. Already confused and haven't even started

 

[Unholy707]

Mine is setup to bypass the heat exhanger by default, I just hit the switch on 3 way valve to go through heat exhanger when it’s cool out

 

[fubar569]

If
I’d like to see this, there’s no way I can think of to plumb the 3 way valve without the chiller always being in the loop

I just got done dicking with the truck (MAF screws disappeared ) and now am outside in the yard. I'll try to sketch it out based on the diagram you posted. I'm bad with photoshop and even worse with MS Paint so. Lol.

 

[covidcommander]

Mine is setup to bypass the heat exhanger by default, I just hit the switch on 3 way valve to go through heat exhanger when it’s cool out

And bypass the heat exchanger when it's hot out? Could you have set the default into the heat exchanger than flip the switch to bypass it? Like vice versa of what you did?

 

[fubar569]

And bypass the heat exchanger when it's hot out? Could you have set the default into the heat exchanger than flip the switch to bypass it? Like vice versa of what you did?

This is how mine is set up. Power off flows as normal like the chiller isn't even there. Power on flows thru the chiller and a bumper mounted auxiliary tank bypassing the heat exchanger.

You really only want to be running the heat exchanger when it's below about 60° outside or also when you are on a road course. Since the chiller finds it hard to keep up in that scenario as the AC kicks out at WOT.

 

[Unholy707]

Yes, but technically the heat exhanger is still in line, but the flow of fluid doesn’t allow the fluid to go through the heat exhanger, it’ll go through the chiller.

And bypass the heat exchanger when it's hot out? Could you have set the default into the heat exchanger than flip the switch to bypass it? Like vice versa of what you did?

 

[Unholy707]

I want to see @fubar569 ’s plumbing. It’s still t’s into the chiller. Has to be.