Stock Fuel Rails, why they don’t keep up

[Mike L.]

Not seeing any beer in that picture!

Maybe that's why it runs.

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

It’s not running just yet...

 

[Mean Cat]

Here she is, bare ass naked not even panty’s on, please, keep both hands on the keyboards guys 😂
Tomorrow get out the replacement pistons and check piston to wall clearance and preliminary ring gap. And then on to the heads. COVID quarantining in the garage isn’t so bad after all LOL.
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Hope you continue to feel better, you have a lot to keep you busy.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

10:1 here’s the next fuel line restriction, the connection with the green lock. Most likely its going to be a rolled over connector just like what was found at the fuel rail connection. And my hunch is back where the line starts at the fuel pumps I’m going to find the same thing. I’ll post pictures of the findings once I get there, first have to test fit new pistons and rings to see how much the block may need honed for correct clearance’s. The bearings, journals, and crank look like new yet. They’ve taken a beating these last 10,000 miles, testament that PUP0-40 is a good oil. View attachment 37559

Just as thought, connection here and back by the tank both necked off just like the fuel rail connection, choked off to .326” at both ends. I’ll be openning both up same to the same as the fuel rail to around .400” ID, that should remove 2 more restrictions and gain some more flow.
I thought about adding the Fore filter while it’s apart back there but I want to see what removing these 2 restrictions net first.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Here’s another interesting find. Been running high % ethanol for a few months, probably 3-400 gallons of the stuff. Prior to that on my 93 tune a Qt of Octanium Unleaded to 15 gallons of fuel. (What I’m saying here is this stuff doesn’t come off even if you stop using it)I posted pictures of the plugs and O2 sensors and even bore scoped a piston or 2 and they where pretty clean. Well having the heads off now I was able to inspect the combustion chambers. Valves discolored to a rusty colored brown and I thought ehh ugly but not that bad, until inspecting the exhaust valves a bit closer they appeared flat just like the intakes. Well in cleaning them came to find out they are not, they have a very deep dish to them that was totally filled in with MMT residue. No solvent of any sort would dissolve it snd I tried some pretty nasty industrial solvents, it took abrasion to get it off. Came off intake valves pretty easy but the exhaust valves it was like a hard coating, took over 100 mini sanding discs, about 2 dozen mini scotch brite discs and a dozen buffing wheels snd about a hour and a half per cylinder to mirror polish them. Glad I’m on corn now!!! No more MMT in the future for me!!!

 

[Speedy!]

Dang! How many quarts of that stuff do you think you ran? What was it like 1/4" thick?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Dang! How many quarts of that stuff do you think you ran? What was it like 1/4" thick?

Qt in Every tank for about 9,000 miles, yea, a good bit LOL. Yea, 3/16” thick probably, was fun getting it all out. I probably have lead poisoning now breathing the crap

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

2 more restrictions removed, from a .325” line to .400 line start to finish now. There may be one more at the pump connection in the tank but at the moment to many other things to do. This only took about 15-20 minutes each end to rectify with a reamer then blow the lines out, flushed with corn and blew out again just in case, back together in a snap. This is a easy one except for engine side if engine is in place.

 

[Speedy!]

Wonder why they have that bevel to start with. Ease of assembly?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Wonder why they have that bevel to start with. Ease of assembly?

Probably, but what’s taken off to open them up to full tubing ID Still leaves about just as much bevel as original except it takes the flat ends off of it. It may be something in the machining process where they form the retention ring on it and they just don’t do a secondary operation to remove it? When putting Them back together they went together just as easy as any other fitting, couldn’t tell the difference.

 

[Speedy!]

How are you clearing debris after modifications?

 

[Felt]

Is it possible that there is also restrictions in the connections maybe? I guess they would be same diameter since they have go on outside the line, just a thought???You probably already verified that but if you didn't.....

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

How are you clearing debris after modifications?

Compressed Air injection from the opposite end blows chips out as their made. Then blew the line out with 120 psi shop air, then fill the line with ethanol and blow it clear again front too back, pretty straight shot.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Is it possible that there is also restrictions in the connections maybe? I guess they would be same diameter since they have go on outside the line, just a thought???You probably already verified that but if you didn't.....

View attachment 38275

Female side has a funnel shaped receiver for the male tip. There most likely one more restriction where that hose plugs into the pumps in the tank. I’ll check that out someday too.

 

[drag racer]

Nice work!

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Hellcat cam verse a tool steel Demon/Redeye cam. Gun drilled, it’s a pound and a half lighter then original cam.

 

[Speedy!]

Hmmmm

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Here’s another Demon upgrade, increased oil delivery to the top end. These little orfice’s are the magic behind 30% more oil being delivered to the valve train and lifters. BIG difference in oil metering jet size between Hellcat head gasket and Demon head gasket.

 

[Speedy!]

Wow, that's an 88% increase in size. @Hpindy

 

[Hpindy]

I wish I had of kept my original head gaskets when I did the cam change but when I did I ordered the demon head gaskets and they were the same part number for my car according to my dealer .

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