Stock Fuel Rails, why they don’t keep up

[Hpindy]

I will give you my $0.02
I would go with the lightest rotating assembly and light pedal pressure for a street car . Inertia goes a long way and your leg will thank you .

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[Speedy!]

He does have some kind of two step.

I ran a McLeod RXT in Orange Krush and the only thing I didn't like about it was the chatter leaving stop lights. I had to give it a few revs to avoid that so what HPIndy says may help that.

 

[BULL]

He does have some kind of two step.

I ran a McLeod RXT in Orange Krush and the only thing I didn't like about it was the chatter leaving stop lights. I had to give it a few revs to avoid that so what HPIndy says may help that.

Did that chatter change over time? Or was it always like that? (Did it get better after a lot of miles?)

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

He does have some kind of two step.

I ran a McLeod RXT in Orange Krush and the only thing I didn't like about it was the chatter leaving stop lights. I had to give it a few revs to avoid that so what HPIndy says may help that.

@Speedy! What was your first gear ratio in orange crush? 3.73 rear or 3.90? I’m running a 2.98 first which has made starting out much easier, I don’t have to slip the clutch ever to keep from stalling unless on a steep hill so that should help in the chatter department? I can just dump the clutch at idle and it’s going somewhere, my wife can even drive it LOL.

I also have RE Axles which are 5 lbs each lighter then stock axles and 7 lbs each lighter then the DSS stage 5 axles. I can cut almost 20 lbs of rotating mass if I go with stock clutch on alum fly wheel and swap out the axles to the RE ones.
But the stock clutch pressure plate is much bigger in diameter then the McLeod which probably makes more of a difference in rotational mass even if it’s a few lbs lighter. My buddy has the RXT1200 in his Mustang and pedal pressure is lighter then my stock clutch but mine is the RXT1200HD which has more clamp load and probably a bit more pedal pressure. Tough decision LOL.
@Hpindy Yes, It’s a street car but it does see track time on 315/50-17 MT Street R’s, and I 1/4 it every time I’m out with it it gets a few 1/4 pulls always. A tickle of nitrous may be the next power adder as I have a few plates and solenoids laying around all I need is another bottle.

 

[Hpindy]

@Speedy! What was your first gear ratio in orange crush? 3.73 rear or 3.90? I’m running a 2.98 first which has made starting out much easier, I don’t have to slip the clutch ever to keep from stalling unless on a steep hill so that should help in the chatter department? I can just dump the clutch at idle and it’s going somewhere, my wife can even drive it LOL.

I also have RE Axles which are 5 lbs each lighter then stock axles and 7 lbs each lighter then the DSS stage 5 axles. I can cut almost 20 lbs of rotating mass if I go with stock clutch on alum fly wheel and swap out the axles to the RE ones.
But the stock clutch pressure plate is much bigger in diameter then the McLeod which probably makes more of a difference in rotational mass even if it’s a few lbs lighter. My buddy has the RXT1200 in his Mustang and pedal pressure is lighter then my stock clutch but mine is the RXT1200HD which has more clamp load and probably a bit more pedal pressure. Tough decision LOL.
@Hpindy Yes, It’s a street car but it does see track time on 315/50-17 MT Street R’s, and I 1/4 it every time I’m out with it it gets a few 1/4 pulls always. A tickle of nitrous may be the next power adder as I have a few plates and solenoids laying around all I need is another bottle.

If you are going to give it a sniff of N20 then put the RXT in it . The extra torque on the hit will really load the clutch.

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[Speedy!]

Did that chatter change over time? Or was it always like that? (Did it get better after a lot of miles?)

Was like that the whole time I had it in there. I don't remember how many miles but a couple years I guess. It was kinda annoying on the street if I'm honest, but I needed the grab at the track so I lived with it.

@Speedy! What was your first gear ratio in orange crush? 3.73 rear or 3.90? I’m running a 2.98 first which has made starting out much easier, I don’t have to slip the clutch ever to keep from stalling unless on a steep hill so that should help in the chatter department? I can just dump the clutch at idle and it’s going somewhere, my wife can even drive it LOL.

I don't remember, it had a 3.92 rear end in it I know that for sure, and whatever the stock Tremec TR6060 has for gear ratios, although the trans was built by RPM with upgraded bits the gears were stock ratio.

 

[Hpindy]

Was like that the whole time I had it in there. I don't remember how many miles but a couple years I guess. It was kinda annoying on the street if I'm honest, but I needed the grab at the track so I lived with it.



I don't remember, it had a 3.92 rear end in it I know that for sure, and whatever the stock Tremec TR6060 has for gear ratios, although the trans was built by RPM with upgraded bits the gears were stock ratio.

You would have had the wide ratio 2.98 gear set in you car . I had it in mine and hated it . It was dump truck low . I switched my trans ratios to the close ratio Hemi 4 speed ratios ( 2.66 gear set )

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[16GoManGoHC2]

Well Santa finally arrived!!

 

[drag racer]

outstanding parts selections!

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

outstanding parts selections!

THANK YOU!! Piston is totally custom design but WISECO may make it a future offering. (THANKS @Hpindy for some guidance and suggestion in this area) The quench area matches the head chamber area which should help with detonation, the hard anodize on the upper half is supposedly over 70Rc which is harder then the rings so the ring lands should not get pounded out for a long long time, the hard coated crown should shed carbon buildup and resist detonation as well and be pretty immune from being eroded away from detonation up to a point, the lower portion is a anodize PTFE mix which also penetrates into the wrists pin bore material as well for longevity in that area as well, perfect match to the DLC H13 .250 wall PINS, sealed with Total Seal AP rings with some special coatings to prevent micro welding and wear, Manley H Tuff rods. The whole assembly only weighs 49 grams more then stock but is rated rated for 200 HP per hole the rod being the weakest part, piston is good for 250 they told me. Way more then I’ll ever ask for it on a stock crank and block. Crank and rods will be spinning on King XPC pMax Black coated bearings with the latest updates in design, their just shipping from Israel now. Longevity and reliability of power being the main focus of this rebuild. Parts delivery has taken a long time but will be worth the wait in the end is my hope. 🤞🙏

 

[Mean Cat]

I believe on the Ford platform you can control fuel per cylinder. On the Dodge platform that's not possible, at least from what I know. I've heard of several Hellcats having a problem with cylinder 7 now. It's gonna either be fuel, which really means temperature, or something with how that cylinder is shaped maybe more friction or something, which also means more temperature in the end. Heat it up a bit too much rings touch and bad things happen.

For reference, my 93 octane tune was setup to run 11.49 AFR (about .83 lambda) on 93 octane. Now above 6200 I have it gradually increase fueling to 11.3 for a bit more cooling at those RPMs. This is a reason E85 is so good in these cars, you get 30% more fuel volume right off the bat PLUS the extra cooling effect of the ethanol.

Most tuners I know run them a bit richer so I imagine Curt's tunes are fine as is. A lot of tuners I've talked to shoot for 11.0 AFR (.80 lambda) to account for crazy stuff owners might do, like back to back to back WOT pulls or something. In a factory tune cat over temp would take care of that, but I don't know any tuner that leaves COT turned on, myself included. You don't want it too rich or it's hard on cats and other things.

My COT is on but the temp was raised some & still have cats.
I think it is set to .80 or .81 Lambda.

 

[Mean Cat]

Good looking Dog, the one on top , love German shepherds, had 2 growing up.

 

[Mean Cat]

Well Santa finally arrived!!
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Pretty !

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Ok, here we go finally!!! Continuing this saga mainly for those that have been watching this for months now, not doing a separate build thread.
So bright and early this morning the day started off with a thorough final cleaning of the just returned from balancing, magnaflux to check for cracks, and Micro Polish of all the journals. Hosed it down with brake clean and scrubbed the oil passages with first a 7/32” brass brush then a nylon one to make sure no brass bristles remained, blow out with shop air, hose down with WD40 and the nylon brush again then yet another blow down so no lint no nothing remain. Ditto for the block with WD40 and now assembly can finally start!! YAAAAAAYYYYY !!

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

After thoroughly blowing out the oil galleries install the oil squirters. They where bagged and will go back in the same places they came from.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Now onto Main Bearings. Using King pMax Black coated bearings. Clearance on all 5 journals .0013”.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Using Driven BR40 break in oil and their Assembly gel, very light coat on all journals and bearings. Install thrust bearings, add caps and Tq the ARP studs in 3 steps to 100 ft lbs.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Crank spins nice and free even with the thick gel on the bearings.

Edit, added video with no sound to get rid of music copy right issue

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Add new rear main seal
Here’s the steps done so far

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Add new Demon Cam Shaft and install thrust plate, upper and lower cam sprockets, new oil pump, check cam timing.