Stock Fuel Rails, why they don’t keep up

[Hpindy]

Don't forget the valve seals for the love of baby Jesus!

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[16GoManGoHC2]

Don't forget the valve seals for the love of baby Jesus!

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They are parts included in the Comp Cams .630 lift Spring And Chromoly Retainer upgrade kit. That kit along with the Stanky Motorsports rocker stand tie bar kit should give me a stable valve train to 7000 RPM’s and safe reving to at least 7300 RPM.

 

[Hpindy]

That's a great parts list and great upgrades!

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[Speedy!]

Geeze, you may be more OCD than I am, and that's saying something! If I ever get an engine built I'm just gonna send a grocery list to you and tell me when it's done LOL.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Geeze, you may be more OCD than I am, and that's saying something! If I ever get an engine built I'm just gonna send a grocery list to you and tell me when it's done LOL.

If something goes wrong in running it I need to know for sure what it wasn’t.
I’d think about building more, the building part is the fun part, but the required analness of triple checking and documenting everything takes so much time I wouldn’t be doing it to make money on that’s for sure lol. But it’s the only way to insure it’s done right.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Ok, so here’s what’s been going on this last week, prepping for head installation. Started with getting a thread forming tap, not a thread cutting tap which would take material out of the threaded holes a thread forming tap reforms any damaged areas and does a great job at getting all the gunk out of the threads. Rotated block so holes faced down, lubed with WD40, rand tap to bottom of each hole and cleaned them out with brake cleaner followed by another flush with WD40. You’d be amazed at the crap left in them from the honing process.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Now that that’s done and I cleaned a work area off onto prepping the heads. It was highly suggested by @Hpindy to replace the valve stem seals while the heads are off so if taking the valve retainers, locks, springs etc off to do such I mine as well install new better parts in the process. So I ordered a Comp Cams .630 lift spring kit and here we go. Change the intake side first.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Now on to the exhaust side, and more MMT crap to clean up Exhaust valves coated with it pretty heavily, worst part is it smashed into the seal seat areas which required a light lapping to remove after swirl polishing the crud off the valve tops and stems. Clean the pockets and guides with Solvent, oil the stems with motor oil and reinstall all nice and shinny and clean.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Words to note. I was amazed the exhaust valves where almost as heavy as the larger intake valves. New springs where about 1/2 the weight of original springs but new retainers were 3 grams heavier. I removed the upstream O2 sensors and was shocked at how much MMT was built up on the upstream side, I could only imagine what the inside of the sensor must look like so today I ordered 2 new ones.

 

[Speedy!]

Very cool to see all this info.

Anyone want my can of octane booster come to ChallengerFest and it's yours LOL.

 

[drag racer]

Speedy - maybe autograph your can of Boostane and do a giveaway prize on your YT channel ;-)

 

[Speedy!]

That'd add another 50hp at least!

 

[Hpindy]

Very cool to see all this info.

Anyone want my can of octane booster come to ChallengerFest and it's yours LOL.

It's ok to use octane booster every now and again but not all the time in my opinion. I carry it in my trunk just in case I get somewhere and need gas but there is no need to no 93/94 available. Any serious racing should be done with race fuel or good E85 .

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[Speedy!]

If I had to run crap fuel in a pinch, I'd just stay out of boost. Drop that sucker to 500hp mode and cruise.

 

[drag racer]

If I had to run crap fuel in a pinch, I'd just stay out of boost. Drop that sucker to 500hp mode and cruise.

Now you're asking for the impossible!

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Head #2 complete, next step install spark plugs indexed toward intake valve, easy to do with head off so mine as well install them now.

Then it’s triple check cam timing by putting a dial indicator on #1 intake and lifter and see where valve starts to open. If all good Then clean the decks and heads one more time, put gaskets on, heads on, put ARP studs in and Tq to 115 ft lbs in 3 steps. Getting close to engine going back in the bay finally.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Ok, had a detour back to the block. After all this meticulous work on the short block and now the heads, all the time spent cleaning everything up to like new a thought that kept me up at night was those beautiful pistons with exact to the thousandth rings and exacting bearing clearances crashing into the hours spent on valves and heads on start up so I had to degree check the cam installation. Been a long time since doing this and this HUGE 123 degree lobe separation and VVT grind made valve events not look right in relation to piston travel location verse valve timing events but it ended up matching the cam card within a few thousandths and a 1/2 a degree which could be instrumentation alignment errors. Ready for the heads now and peaceful sleep!!

 

[vortecd]

You forgot to port the heads when they were off

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

You forgot to port the heads when they were off

Thought about doing such, could have had it done deeply discounted through a friend but the Demon cam lift doesn’t warrant it so I didn’t do it. Some spray someday under the blower jetted right at the intake valves will cover that up

 

[Speedy!]

Holy crap, that's over my head right there. How's that cam compare to stock? Can't wait to hear about the tuning on that and some sound clips!

When I had the old engine built, Arrington didn't recommend porting the heads on a supercharged car (FI in general) as the juice wasn't worth the $queeze.