Demon harness bar

[PaVaSteeler]

Why would anyone spend $700 (AAD price) to $1,300 (Speedlogix price) for something that not only isn't certified by any governing body as a safety device, but adds back the weight removed when the rear seat is deleted?

As to the question from whom should this piece be purchased, the evidence seems to be pretty conclusive that AAD had the original design but Speedlogix "appropriated it".

For a "fluff" piece of equipment, that offers no real safety, it makes sense to buy from AAD at half the price.

 

[Bowtie Guy]

I wish I paid 1300
Nice set up
Looks awesome in the box is was shipped in

 

[Marc W]

Why would anyone spend $700 (AAD price) to $1,300 (Speedlogix price) for something that not only isn't certified by any governing body as a safety device, but adds back the weight removed when the rear seat is deleted?

As to the question from whom should this piece be purchased, the evidence seems to be pretty conclusive that AAD had the original design but Speedlogix "appropriated it".

For a "fluff" piece of equipment, that offers no real safety, it makes sense to buy from AAD at half the price.

Let’s play a game...... you are going to be in a car that is going to loose control and hit the wall at 130 mph. Consistently, it is going to roll at over 100 mph. This means that you are going over and over multiple times. Now before this happens you are going to have the choice of doing it with either the OEM pull across seatbelt or a 5-point harness that you can cinch down as tight as you want. You are probably going to want want some neck protection so the weight of your helmet doesn’t break your neck. There are basically two choices. The round donut that you wear around your neck..... or the device that is held down by the harness shoulder straps. You know.... the Hans or Simpson type devices that tether your helmet. I’ll repeat that... those are held down by the harness shoulder strap. Ok we’re just about ready. You want to get in and see how your two different choices feel? Of coarse you do! Tighten the harness straps real tight! OK... time to choose! You thought the five point harness with the Hans felt like it would do a better job of protecting you? Good choice! Only one thing....... you need the “fluf” harness bar to use those. Oh well.... good luck.

 

[1971demon]

Its the inner rear panels
All I have read is "firmly pull on them"

I can t get myself to start pulling & prying on them
I know I ll F something up

SL never packed any instructions with my kit

I know...those panels...you really don't need to pry them out that much...its not that bad at all

 

[1971demon]

Let’s play a game...... you are going to be in a car that is going to loose control and hit the wall at 130 mph. Consistently, it is going to roll at over 100 mph. This means that you are going over and over multiple times. Now before this happens you are going to have the choice of doing it with either the OEM pull across seatbelt or a 5-point harness that you can cinch down as tight as you want. You are probably going to want want some neck protection so the weight of your helmet doesn’t break your neck. There are basically two choices. The round donut that you wear around your neck..... or the device that is held down by the harness shoulder straps. You know.... the Hans or Simpson type devices that tether your helmet. I’ll repeat that... those are held down by the harness shoulder strap. Ok we’re just about ready. You want to get in and see how your two different choices feel? Of coarse you do! Tighten the harness straps real tight! OK... time to choose! You thought the five point harness with the Hans felt like it would do a better job of protecting you? Good choice! Only one thing....... you need the “fluf” harness bar to use those. Oh well.... good luck.

I'll admit...the bar in my Demon was purchased for the cool factor...Till I cinched up that harness...your planted in that seat..even for spirited daily driving...I would recommend it...it works...big time

 

[Hellion]

Can't go wrong with AAD products.

 

[Mean Cat]

Piece of cake , LOL

 

[Stormtrooper1320]

I'll admit...the bar in my Demon was purchased for the cool factor...Till I cinched up that harness...your planted in that seat..even for spirited daily driving...I would recommend it...it works...big time

Wait!! There's also a "cool factor" to it?! No way!! I didn't see that in any sales literature. Alright...I'm in. AAD it is.

 

[Bowtie Guy]

I know...those panels...you really don't need to pry them out that much...its not that bad at all

Where do I start pulling from ?

The video above with crazy guy doing the install had the panels off already

It was 1 degree here last nite so my grass finally stopped growing & I can play in the garage now so I should actually do something

 

[coolblue]

Where do I start pulling from ?

The video above with crazy guy doing the install had the panels off already

It was 1 degree here last nite so my grass finally stopped growing & I can play in the garage now so I should actually do something

You should be more aware of the temp. If you have a heated garage and car(panels) are up to temp you should have no prob. I did the rear seat delete a few months ago and had to pull them. Its is disconcerting. Its like a band aid if you pull slow they hang up and fight to come off. Just start lifting the panel you'll feel the attach points then try to get hand finger anything close and pull quick and hard. They will come off. I did it in summer , plastic was very warm. Again I'd be afraid of the cold panel maybe breaking.

 

[Bowtie Guy]

You should be more aware of the temp. If you have a heated garage and car(panels) are up to temp you should have no prob. I did the rear seat delete a few months ago and had to pull them. Its is disconcerting. Its like a band aid if you pull slow they hang up and fight to come off. Just start lifting the panel you'll feel the attach points then try to get hand finger anything close and pull quick and hard. They will come off. I did it in summer , plastic was very warm. Again I'd be afraid of the cold panel maybe breaking.

The only thing cold in my garage is the beer

I keep the garage heated 24 7 in this shit ass weather

I hate cold tools / floors

My understanding is there are NO fasteners to remove just snap clips
Did you have to remove your door sill ?

 

[coolblue]

The only thing cold in my garage is the beer

I keep the garage heated 24 7 in this shit ass weather

I hate cold tools / floors

My understanding is there are NO fasteners to remove just snap clips
Did you have to remove your door sill ?

Yes. But I popped only half the sill so I could get the lip of the rear panel that goes under it by the dogleg out. Once you do the 1st one you'll get more confidence in the strength of the plastic. 2cnd will be easier.

 

[1971demon]

Where do I start pulling from ?

The video above with crazy guy doing the install had the panels off already

It was 1 degree here last nite so my grass finally stopped growing & I can play in the garage now so I should actually do something

I wished I would have videoed my install...you don't actually need to remove the panels....the big thing...making sure the mounts for the bar are facing the right way...

 

[Bowtie Guy]

I wished I would have videoed my install...you don't actually need to remove the panels....the big thing...making sure the mounts for the bar are facing the right way...

Ya me too LOLOLOL

 

[PaVaSteeler]

Where do I start pulling from ?

The video above with crazy guy doing the install had the panels off already

It was 1 degree here last nite so my grass finally stopped growing & I can play in the garage now so I should actually do something

You should be more aware of the temp. If you have a heated garage and car(panels) are up to temp you should have no prob. I did the rear seat delete a few months ago and had to pull them. Its is disconcerting. Its like a band aid if you pull slow they hang up and fight to come off. Just start lifting the panel you'll feel the attach points then try to get hand finger anything close and pull quick and hard. They will come off. I did it in summer , plastic was very warm. Again I'd be afraid of the cold panel maybe breaking.

Word of advice: You don't really "pull" on these panels, ESPECIALLY if they've been sitting in the cold garage, unless you want to increase risk of breaking them.

You want to pry it loose enough to get your hand or a plastic trim tool behind the panel and push with at least half as much force as you're pulling. The object is to apply this push/pull pressure at the clip joints, NOT on any edge of the trim...I had a door sill plastic trim piece snap because I simply "pulled".

 

[Stormtrooper1320]

Where do I start pulling from ?

The video above with crazy guy doing the install had the panels off already

It was 1 degree here last nite so my grass finally stopped growing & I can play in the garage now so I should actually do something

There are several videos on YouTube for this project. Speedy did a nice video on the process.

 

[PaVaSteeler]

Let’s play a game...... you are going to be in a car that is going to loose control and hit the wall at 130 mph. Consistently, it is going to roll at over 100 mph. This means that you are going over and over multiple times. Now before this happens you are going to have the choice of doing it with either the OEM pull across seatbelt or a 5-point harness that you can cinch down as tight as you want. You are probably going to want want some neck protection so the weight of your helmet doesn’t break your neck. There are basically two choices. The round donut that you wear around your neck..... or the device that is held down by the harness shoulder straps. You know.... the Hans or Simpson type devices that tether your helmet. I’ll repeat that... those are held down by the harness shoulder strap. Ok we’re just about ready. You want to get in and see how your two different choices feel? Of coarse you do! Tighten the harness straps real tight! OK... time to choose! You thought the five point harness with the Hans felt like it would do a better job of protecting you? Good choice! Only one thing....... you need the “fluf” harness bar to use those. Oh well.... good luck.

I'm not disputing the increased security of a harness over the OEM seat belt, but your example illustrates the "shortcuts" many take that can ultimately lead to them being kicked out of track for non-compliance. A car that goes 130 mph is by NHRA rules required to have at least a roll bar. The harness bar does not meet that requirement. My point was that in terms of meeting safety requirements set forth by the NHRA, the Demon bar, reserved as it was originally for just Demons, fails to do that, and thus is "fluff". Granted, there are some good reasons for such "fluff", but if I were fortunate enough to own and race a Demon at the speeds its capable of reaching, I'd invest in my own future by skipping the harness bar and going to a roll bar, at the least.

 

[Marc W]

As long as we keep the conversation related to two things..... the current Dodge Hellcat/Demon platform and safety (not NHRA requirements) then there is a point to be made for using a “harness” bar. However.... that point is a degree of increased safety only. If one is planning on investing in a 9 second car and want to run it on the track more than once....... it would be wise to have a better understanding of exactly what the NHRA does and doesn’t allow. Example....... A six point roll bar is nothing but a harness bar. The additional hoop and door bars buy you nothing as far as the NHRA is concerned. They give you no credit for that when it comes to what they allow you to run on the track. But..... There are many tracks that do allow cars to go faster than the NHRA rulebook and the guys who are doing that might see a harness bar and 5-point as a low cost way of protecting their own neck. As one of the few around here that has gone thru the expense of being able to check all the boxes on a NHRA tech card, I can tell you that every box on that card costs something. Most people just think there is a “roll bar or cage” required. There’s a lot more to it than that and it all has strictly defined requirements. I’m probably one of only two or three here that actually know how much it costs to check all the boxes on one of those cards. $10k. You can probably do it for a couple thousand less with your choice of cage design and materials but you will devalue your car by more than that by going that direction. For some thinking about getting started on going down the track in less than 10 seconds..... it might be a good idea to spend $10 on a NHRA rulebook.

 

[Bowtie Guy]

There are several videos on YouTube for this project. Speedy did a nice video on the process.

I haven t seen anything on the panel removal
I ll keep looking

 

[coolblue]

I had a conversation with an electrician a few years ago about an Idea I had. It wasn't to "code" but it was a good idea and would work very well. We discussed different points of the idea, and he said yes that would work perfectly fine. I said but then it wouldn't be code. He said that doesn't mean it's not good or better than code. He said code is a minimum standard for people who would do things that would be unsafe or hurt themselves or others. If what you do (with intelligence and experience) works well or is better, there's nothing wrong with it even though it's not sanctioned or code. Just because NHRA doesn't count it as "legit" to be a rollbar doesn't mean it's not effective for other safety features MarcW has mentioned earlier. For 700 it keeps you from breaking your neck possibly? Gain more control by being more secured in the seat? I don't know...... let me think .