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QuickJack Problem - UPDATE

DGatzby

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#21
I disconnect mine in the "middle" I guess you could say - not at the pump and not at the frame cylinders. I have had 2 QJ units, and know what you are saying about being a little tough to push connect sometimes. Can't offer much other than I always hold on the down button for a few seconds after frames have fully retracted. That "should" relieve pressure I would think. But even doing that, mine are also tough sometimes - I just deal with it.
Same deal here, exactly. I just put my fists between my legs and squeez ‘em. Mine popped one of those valves also. Remember to also check the air chambers guys.
 


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#22
My experience on the air chambers is: they are useless. Both of my units don't hold air for very long. I called QJ to discuss that one time, and the guy said they are not really necessary and just ignore them. Also, yes, make sure the vent on the pump oil tank is not closed. My first unit had a metal tank, and my newer unit has a plastic one, and I forgot to open it one time and the sucker started to swell pretty good upon lowering. :oops:
 


Unholy707

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#23
My experience on the air chambers is: they are useless. Both of my units don't hold air for very long. I called QJ to discuss that one time, and the guy said they are not really necessary and just ignore them. Also, yes, make sure the vent on the pump oil tank is not closed. My first unit had a metal tank, and my newer unit has a plastic one, and I forgot to open it one time and the sucker started to swell pretty good upon lowering. :oops:
Yep lmfao mine almost exploded/imploded
 


DGatzby

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#24
Update, QJ SUCKS!

Got my car down Saturday. My one stubborn Jack is entirely in the weeds. It has stuck for years about an inch high, but I have been tolerant.

So…..

Holding down the button - check - always do that but one Jack is just phucked up.

Checked for 50 psi in the cylinders - check

Removed the breather - check

Set the damn car on ramps to get the SOB under it that was sticking, and up and down without the ramps- same shit - check; the SOB has been stubborn in the last inch of lowering for six years. It remains at two inches from its resting position this year and that is a problem.

Submitted a “TICKET” to QJ. - check

Stay tuned, but not happy with the necessity to leave that shit on my garage floor for three weeks while I am gone because I simply can’t get the hose off one Jack.

THAT JUNK IS NEARLY FOR SALE, along with two front KW adjustable shocks that I believe may be phucked up also. I’m going to dial those SOB’s down to zero when I get home and that car better be higher or they are coming off and I’ll treat them to a real hot plasma torch just because! Yes, I am pissed. Busy enough but when tools don’t work and expected adjustments don’t yield results this is not fun any longer.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #25
I have not spent any time trying to figure out the problems (I have better things to do) but my theory is that their bleed process does not get all of the air out if the pump, lines and cylinders. Hydraulics are usually extremely simple and reliable, but I think the bleed procedure is BS. Maybe this spring when I'm bored, I'll play around with it.

Back in the day, I designed a hydraulic valve and it just wouldn't f'kin work right! Another engineer helped, he disassembled the valve and reassembled it deep in a bucket full of fluid so there wasn't a single tiny bubble in it. We did a very messy bleeding of the lines, hooked it up, and it worked perfectly.

One stupid bubble will completely f'k everything up!
 


Unholy707

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#26
My one is always stuck up a bit and it’s only a year old
 


DGatzby

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#27
I have not spent any time trying to figure out the problems (I have better things to do) but my theory is that their bleed process does not get all of the air out if the pump, lines and cylinders. Hydraulics are usually extremely simple and reliable, but I think the bleed procedure is BS. Maybe this spring when I'm bored, I'll play around with it.

Back in the day, I designed a hydraulic valve and it just wouldn't f'kin work right! Another engineer helped, he disassembled the valve and reassembled it deep in a bucket full of fluid so there wasn't a single tiny bubble in it. We did a very messy bleeding of the lines, hooked it up, and it worked perfectly.

One stupid bubble will completely f'k everything up!
We will see what they tell me. But I need to release the pressure and did not want to start just unscrewing anything other than that breather yet anyway. I don’t need hydraulic fluid everywhere or a high pressure accident.
 


DGatzby

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#28
My one is always stuck up a bit and it’s only a year old
Hoping I can supply good info for us soon. That is exactly what mine did, one of them is a PIA, the other works absolutely fine all the time.
 


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#29
Gatz, hoping you get your Q-J quirks all straightened out soon! On a positive note, I finally conquered my fear of averting near-disaster three years ago when trying to lift the DDSRT for the first time and did a lot of thinking and research since then and faced it head on last weekend and finally devised a combination of blocks and scheme that was successful...

1709619210393.jpeg
 


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Unholy707

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#30
Gatz, hoping you get your Q-J quirks all straightened out soon! On a positive note, I finally conquered my fear of averting near-disaster three years ago when trying to lift the DDSRT for the first time and did a lot of thinking and research since then and faced it head on last weekend and finally devised a combination of blocks and scheme that was successful...

View attachment 131799
I should have gotten the 7k lb ones. I have the 5k lb ones. How’s your Durango holding up? I’m looking at a newer one right now (r/t tow n go)
 


DGatzby

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#31
Gatz, hoping you get your Q-J quirks all straightened out soon! On a positive note, I finally conquered my fear of averting near-disaster three years ago when trying to lift the DDSRT for the first time and did a lot of thinking and research since then and faced it head on last weekend and finally devised a combination of blocks and scheme that was successful...

View attachment 131799
Nice truck, correct engine:p Just got to Denver yesterday and drove mine for the first time in over a month. That right there IS my favorite vehicle for DD. They are very comfy and I can’t wait to subtract 4000’ in altitude (DA) and get it back to 980’ in MN. I don’t know if I got the balls to try it with my 5000 lb unit. @BULL treated me to his garage to change the oil and brakes last fall. Pretty sure he has the larger model. It sure has a PIA location for that oil filter.
 


drag racer

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#32
I should have gotten the 7k lb ones. I have the 5k lb ones. How’s your Durango holding up? I’m looking at a newer one right now (r/t tow n go)
It's doing fine, about 12k miles, no major complaints, and enjoy it a lot. (y)
 


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drag racer

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#33
Nice truck, correct engine:p Just got to Denver yesterday and drove mine for the first time in over a month. That right there IS my favorite vehicle for DD. They are very comfy and I can’t wait to subtract 4000’ in altitude (DA) and get it back to 980’ in MN. I don’t know if I got the balls to try it with my 5000 lb unit. @BULL treated me to his garage to change the oil and brakes last fall. Pretty sure he has the larger model. It sure has a PIA location for that oil filter.
Agree, the oil filter is a bit of a PITA to get to compared to the cars, which spoil us. My first lift attempt 3 years ago that I alluded to was with my 5,000lb unit, which I figured might get it off the ground since Q-J basically designed a 3.0 safety factor, but I never got that far - I was using ZL1 pucks on Q-J blocks at all 4 corners (bad idea) on the pinch welds and just when it got to the point of taking up all the suspension travel, the fronts started to just get off the ground, and boom - one of the front pucks got ejected, vehicle tilted, and scared the crap out of me. Luckily no damage to anything other than a bent ZL1 puck. Ever since, been nervous to try again, but I had to since it completely sucks lifting one corner at a time to get all 4 off the ground so I could at least rotate the tires. I sold the 5k unit and got the 7k unit, and even with it and my revised lifting scheme, was a bit tricky getting everything to clear the underbody rocker facia, but worked great and was rock solid this time.
 


Unholy707

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#34
Enjoy it a lot and 12k miles in the same sentence? 😉
It's doing fine, about 12k miles, no major complaints, and enjoy it a lot. (y)
 


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#35
Got me! I try and make the Hemi miles "enjoyable" ones on road trips and/or at least quality family time, which most have been. I try to keep the mundane daily stuff to the daily's which get the crap beat out of them, so if and when I "retire", I have the Hemi's still in excellent shape :).
 


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#36
They're not listed for the 'Rango but I like the Lift Pad Pros when using my Quick Jacks...

https://www.liftpadpros.com/

I've likewise had issues with the connectors being difficult or one not lowering completely, it's even worse on the Charger/Challenger platform with the reduced ground clearance and it's near impossible to get any leverage on it to add weight/pressure to get it drop...

On a somewhat related note, but neighbor added casters to his which makes them WAY easier to maneuver underneath your vehicle while adding minimal height to them. There's several YT videos on how-to that mod.
 


DGatzby

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#37
Agree, the oil filter is a bit of a PITA to get to compared to the cars, which spoil us. My first lift attempt 3 years ago that I alluded to was with my 5,000lb unit, which I figured might get it off the ground since Q-J basically designed a 3.0 safety factor, but I never got that far - I was using ZL1 pucks on Q-J blocks at all 4 corners (bad idea) on the pinch welds and just when it got to the point of taking up all the suspension travel, the fronts started to just get off the ground, and boom - one of the front pucks got ejected, vehicle tilted, and scared the crap out of me. Luckily no damage to anything other than a bent ZL1 puck. Ever since, been nervous to try again, but I had to since it completely sucks lifting one corner at a time to get all 4 off the ground so I could at least rotate the tires. I sold the 5k unit and got the 7k unit, and even with it and my revised lifting scheme, was a bit tricky getting everything to clear the underbody rocker facia, but worked great and was rock solid this time.
Thanks for that. I know what I am NOT doing.;)
 


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#38

BULL

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#39
Oh, and I also use pinch-weld adapters upfront and use the built-in lift pads in the rear as well as the kit above.
 


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#40
Interesting, BULL. I have the truck/SUV kit above that I use for my daily S-10 with body on frame, works like a charm, easy as pie. You must be lifting further inboard to clear the fascia?
 




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