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This could have been bad... nearly had my car burn down making a 7 second pass

zhc

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#1
 


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#2
Great video & message about safety. Hope the damage wasn’t to bad.
 


OP
Z

zhc

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Thread Starter #3
Great video & message about safety. Hope the damage wasn’t to bad.
There’s quite a bit of fire damage all along the bottom driver side of the car, all repairable though. Anything that saw a bunch of heat I’ll be replacing, fuel lines and driveshaft for example.
 


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Seeing that transmission line that came out of the c-clip fitting is deja vu for me. That happened to me last year so now I have clamps around the c-clip fitting over the c-clip. I came to the conclusion that the clip some how pushed itself out enough to release the push in line. So now the clamps I installed prevents that from happening again. I hope. So far so good. Luckily, mine did not ignite into a fire. Hope you get it fixed soon.
 


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Glad you’re safe z!! Sorry to hear this, hopefully the damage isn’t too extensive and you can bounce back quickly. I’ve always heard that ATF was flammable , but I’ve never actually seen it happen. Glad you’re ok, and the track had an excellent emergency response team. It hurts me to see this, but I know you’ll be back 🥇🏆
 


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Seeing that transmission line that came out of the c-clip fitting is deja vu for me. That happened to me last year so now I have clamps around the c-clip fitting over the c-clip. I came to the conclusion that the clip some how pushed itself out enough to release the push in line. So now the clamps I installed prevents that from happening again. I hope. So far so good. Luckily, mine did not ignite into a fire. Hope you get it fixed soon.
Do you have any additional info or pics on the clamps you used? Assuming just worm clamps? I’ve lost many of those clips sling shotting like a bullet across the garage 😅
 


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#7
That was a good response by the track people! Unfortunately that’s not always the case. The possibility for a car destroy fire at this level is a real thing. I have a 10 lb Safecraft fire suppression system with four nozzles. Two are auto (heat activated). One in the trunk with the fuel tank and one in the rear interior behind the drivers seat. The other two are in the engine compartment over the headers on each side. Those are manually activated by pulling a T-handle. Plus…. A hand held where I can get to it from the driver side. Obviously I’m scared of fire 😬 IMG_3571.jpeg IMG_3011.jpeg IMG_3825.jpeg IMG_4966.jpeg IMG_1934.jpeg
 


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Do you have any additional info or pics on the clamps you used? Assuming just worm clamps? I’ve lost many of those clips sling shotting like a bullet across the garage 😅
You could use a couple of narrow band worm clamps, but I didn't have any of them at the time, so I used a couple of #235 (7/8") Crimp clamps instead.

20240527_213110.jpg 20240527_212914.jpg
 


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BULL

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#9
Dude!

Glad you're safe!

Car parts are cheap compared to human parts.
 


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It’s only a car.
 


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zhc

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Thread Starter #11
That was a good response by the track people! Unfortunately that’s not always the case. The possibility for a car destroy fire at this level is a real thing. I have a 10 lb Safecraft fire suppression system with four nozzles. Two are auto (heat activated). One in the trunk with the fuel tank and one in the rear interior behind the drivers seat. The other two are in the engine compartment over the headers on each side. Those are manually activated by pulling a T-handle. Plus…. A hand held where I can get to it from the driver side. Obviously I’m scared of fire 😬 View attachment 139930 View attachment 139931 View attachment 139933 View attachment 139934 View attachment 139935
I would add one more to cover trans tunnel. Otherwise your layout wouldn’t be that useful for suppression in a scenario like mine. More protection more better! I’ll be building out mine next.
 


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zhc

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Thread Starter #12
Dude!

Glad you're safe!

Car parts are cheap compared to human parts.
Wanna know something interesting? Despite the shut down being decently long at this track, and having the chute out, my tbm brakes were still glowing red after the safety and fire crew arrived and put out the fire. Like a dull red glow that eventually faded to normal shortly afterwards. What does that mean in your expert opinion?
 


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#13
Wanna know something interesting? Despite the shut down being decently long at this track, and having the chute out, my tbm brakes were still glowing red after the safety and fire crew arrived and put out the fire. Like a dull red glow that eventually faded to normal shortly afterwards. What does that mean in your expert opinion?

Especially at night, that's "ok", but only just...

I reference at night because black-body IR radiation is amplified a bit (human perception of it anyway)

Pick one of these colors and make a best guess at which one you got to, then we can talk about how much headroom you had (or not)


https://www.machinemfg.com/temperature-and-color-chart/

And remind me, are your TBM rotors C.I. or steel?
 


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There’s quite a bit of fire damage all along the bottom driver side of the car, all repairable though. Anything that saw a bunch of heat I’ll be replacing, fuel lines and driveshaft for example.
Holy Smokes! (pun partially intended)

Glad you're okay.(y)

... Obviously I’m scared of fire 😬
One of the first things I remember being taught at the State Fire Academy was:
  • Firefighters are also afraid of fire
  • that fear (combined with training) helps keep us safe and get the fire out
 


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Wanna know something interesting? Despite the shut down being decently long at this track, and having the chute out, my tbm brakes were still glowing red after the safety and fire crew arrived and put out the fire. Like a dull red glow that eventually faded to normal shortly afterwards. What does that mean in your expert opinion?
To me…. That means two chutes 😂. Had that conversation with Colby when he ran off the end after deployment failure. It’s 4000 lb going 180+… 😳. I’m adding a second one with the turbos.
 


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jgilj

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Glad you’re ok you’ll have the car back up soon.
 


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Red brakes are fine, and expected in a panic brake situation. That just means the rotor is taking in a lot of energy. So long as they still provide adequate stopping the next time you need them, you’re fine.
 


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Wow Z, glad you're ok man.
 


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@zhc I watched the premier last night. Sucks to see. I'm glad you're safe, cars can be replaced, you can't be. What line pressure were you commanding? You would have to be exceeding quite a bit to get those quick disconnects to break. Stock line pressures average 100, some tunes average 150 maybe higher depending on tuner. Did you go thermonuclear to get that hp90 to shift and go 190+?
 


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zhc

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Thread Starter #20
@zhc I watched the premier last night. Sucks to see. I'm glad you're safe, cars can be replaced, you can't be. What line pressure were you commanding? You would have to be exceeding quite a bit to get those quick disconnects to break. Stock line pressures average 100, some tunes average 150 maybe higher depending on tuner. Did you go thermonuclear to get that hp90 to shift and go 190+?
The retaining c clip did not break. And I generally command less pressure than some of tuners out there. Some folks have come up with ways to secure the retaining c clip to keep it engaged, like with zip ties or metal bands or a hose clamp as mentioned above by @DemonSRT . Seems like a viable solution to reduce chances that something like this can occur and it does seem to have occurred to some folks over the years. I have an after market cooler so I'm just going to replace everything with an fittings and lines going forward.
 




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