Charger roll cages & harness....

[Dman007]

Anyone know of a good company selling roll cages for the chargers and includes 6 point harness?

Thank you for any help,
Colby

 

[Mean Cat]

Sorry no help with your question but I want to say I like your new Avatar pic.

 

[Dman007]

Can not wait until Dave sees it. LMAO!!

 

[moparjim]

Another one here that likes the new avatar pic.🤣

Sorry no help for your question.😕
I will go to the back of the class now.😃

 

[Mean Cat]

Can not wait until Dave sees it. LMAO!!

I was confused at first , because I saw it was @hellno's car in the pic but your name "Dman007" , lol , then I saw the little red car by his , saw the pic. on Hellno's thread.

 

[Hpindy]

I think the roll bar / cage would have to be custom made by a chassis shop .

I took like the avatar pic . Lol
I do like tormenting Dave too

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[Marc W]

Prefabricated roll bars like RPM, with the additional add on front half pieces to end up with a certified cage, will end up costing as much as a custom by the time the welding is factored in. A custom Chromoly cage done right by an experienced shop will run you five to seven thousand dollars. Just need to find that shop near you. Mine was in St George, Utah of all places. ZHC just had his Charger caged so he’ll be one of the few to have done that.

 

[Linda's Hell Cat]

http://rpmrollbar.com/charger-full-cage-2005-to-present/

I have a Brand new Roll Bar for a Charger that I will be selling, but it is not a cage

Linda

 

[Hpindy]

Hey Marc
What is the ET/MPH cut off for a bar? Cage?

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[Marc W]

Hey Marc
What is the ET/MPH cut off for a bar? Cage?

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

Quicker than 9.99 or faster than 135 mph per the NHRA rulebook. If going strictly by those rules, the car has to have all the required stuff (a lot) to be certified to run down to 8.50 seconds. At a track that techs for that.... I will get a 8.5 shoe polished on my window so I’m allowed to go down to that. Without the cert requirements met you will get a 10.0 on your window. And btw.... that’s a full certified cage (plus all the rest of the safety stuff). A roll bar gets you nothing. Just a glorified harness bar.

 

[Hpindy]

9.99 or 135 mph per the NHRA rulebook. If going strictly by those rules, the car has to have all the required certified stuff (a lot) to run 8.50 seconds. At a track that techs for that.... I will get a 8.5 shoe polished on my window so I’m allowed to go down to that. Without the cert requirements met you will get a 10.0 on your window. And btw.... that’s a full certified cage (plus all the rest of the safety stuff). A roll bar gets you nothing. Just a glorified harness bar.

that's what I wanted to know . So our cars require a cage . I wasn't sure if a bar would do . I also understand about the other safety gear I'm just addressing to cage vs bar issue in this thread for everyone .

Thanks Marc

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[Marc W]

I that's what I wanted to know . So our cars require a cage . I wasn't sure if a bar would do . I also understand about the other safety gear I'm just addressing to cage vs bar issue in this thread for everyone .

Thanks Marc

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

I know there’s a lot of confusion. Here’s what the NHRA tech enforcers like to see when it comes to a “cage”.

 

[zhc]

Prefabricated roll bars like RPM, with the additional add on front half pieces to end up with a certified cage, will end up costing as much as a custom by the time the welding is factored in. A custom Chromoly cage done right by an experienced shop will run you five to seven thousand dollars. Just need to find that shop near you. Mine was in St George, Utah of all places. ZHC just had his Charger caged so he’ll be one of the few to have done that.

Having gone the RPM cage route myself, I recommend just having one custom done by an experienced shop. It’ll likely turn out better and will cost the same or less after all said and done.

 

[Marc W]

Having gone the RPM cage route myself, I recommend just having one custom done by an experienced shop. It’ll likely turn out better and will cost the same or less after all said and done.

Yeah that was my take after seeing what had to be done to join the roll bar and front cage half. If you’re a capable tube fitter/tig welder and can do all that yourself then I guess you could save some money but if you have to have a shop do the complete install then I can see where having a custom setup done isn’t going to cost much more if you go to somebody with the experience to do it right.

 

[Dman007]

I know there’s a lot of confusion. Here’s what the NHRA tech enforcers like to see when it comes to a “cage”. View attachment 13260 View attachment 13261 View attachment 13262 View attachment 13263 View attachment 13266 View attachment 13265

Thank you Marc! that is exactly what I needed to see. Thus, need a full cage.

I have reached out to my mechanic and let's see if he can build or get someone to build an over the dash cage for the Charger.

Do not want to destroy the dash, if we can avoid it. The end game is to revert this car back to stock, trade in for the "next project". Because selling a race car is a smaller market, if that makes sense.

 

[Marc W]

Thank you Marc! that is exactly what I needed to see. Thus, need a full cage.

I have reached out to my mechanic and let's see if he can build or get someone to build an over the dash cage for the Charger.

Do not want to destroy the dash, if we can avoid it. The end game is to revert this car back to stock, trade in for the "next project". Because selling a race car is a smaller market, if that makes sense.

I understand exactly. When I went to the shop to check on having this done I was very concerned about all the potential issues with removing the dash. Will it go back in place without damage? Will it rattle or vibrate? What about all those electrical connections? I asked them about “maybe” doing the in front of the dash approach. No offense to those that have that. His quote.. not mine! He looked at me and said.... “we don’t do half ass stuff like that”. 😂. They removed and replaced the whole interior of the car (including the dash and everything in there) like it was nothing. You can not tell it was ever done. The damage you’re talking about is confined to the narrow strips of plastic that have the speaker vents in them. They are separate from dash and can simply be replaced with new ones if wanted later. These guys didn’t even need to remove the speakers. They are still in there and working.

 

[Linda's Hell Cat]

Custom can be built nicer. My Husband had a custom Roll Cage installed in Top Cat Challenger at HHP. He really liked their work.

Linda

 

[hellno]

Custom can be built nicer. My Husband had a custom Roll Cage installed in Top Cat Challenger at HHP. He really liked their work.

Linda

Linda are you running a cage??

 

[Marc W]

The design of the cage is important because it can actually contribute to the performance of the car on the track. When it comes to race cars... most of us understand that a stiff chassis is a important factor to have a suspension that works well. Track car or drag car.... it’s important that the chassis isn’t flexing. The stiffer the better. When we designed the cage in my car, it was important for me to tie it into the actual frame of the car. Some cages are attached to the floor pan with the rear down bars sitting on top of the wheel wells. There is no way that is as strong or as rigid as a cage that is connected to the frame. I placed the main hoop and it’s inward bracing on the cross member that the front edge of the rear seat rests on. This is a main structural piece of the chassis. A couple benefits of doing this is that the main hoop is short, allowing it to be moved around and even down to the floorduring the build to allow the overhead bar attachment and welding to take place. It allowed the welds to go all around the tubes on top. The NHRA actually allows the tubing in some places to not be welded all the way around where I’d can’t be reached. In that case, additional braces have to be placed. When my cage was being inspected the guy was running his finger around on top because I didn’t have any additional bracing. He commented that I was welded 360 degrees on top and asked how the hell that was done. I showed him that it was because of the placement of the main hoop being up high, allowing it to be lowered during the build to get that welding completed. It also allowed the head liner to stay in place as well as the front windshield during the build. Many of the cages you’ll see with these require removing the windshield to do that welding. Another thing I did was to install a sill bar. If you know what a subframe connector is.... that’s what this does. It ties it all together down low. All this isn’t necessary to just be allowed to go under 10 seconds, but my intent was to go a lot faster than that so the extra effort was made. Here’s a picture of the sill bar setup I’m talking about.....

 

[hellno]

Couldn’t the front bar be installed at a later date since I’m not running 8.5 yet?