Killer Chiller NIB with all options

[16GoManGoHC2]

The AC compressor did not engage until system pressure came up to about 25 or so lbs, about the first can or so. I added the can of oil charge and sealant mix after the compressor started to spin. I purchased the Freon and oil/conditioner charge from Walmart. When running the system burp air from Tee fitting and also from brass bleeder valve on back of super charger where the coolant hoses go.
Edit, charge with can upright until compressor engages, that way it’s all gas, turning can on it’s side or upside down will induce liquid Freon which isn’t good for the compressor to start on. Once compressor is spinning then charge in a liquid state, can on it’s side or upside down

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I’ll post some more pictures later of how I got wiring into the cabin and switch plate I made up for the Drag Valve and Heat Exchanger Bypass valve switches. They ended up right under the steering column inside the vinyl trim boot, no drilling screwing sticky tape or nothing to mount them, hidden but easy to access and use.

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

Excellent work, way over my head!

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

It’s not really that hard, just tedious and time consuming to do it to this level of insulating so it 1 looks great, 2 no thermal loss due to lack of being insulated, no place for condensation to form to make water drips or contribute to rusting in unseen places. It’s like model building, you can’t detail the interior after its put together. I used to build scale plastic models as a Young kid, was in the Model Builder Club where a model would Come in the mail about every 3 months and get bigger and more detailed as you progressed through them. I remember building a large scale B29 where I even painted the toilet seats amongst other things inside it that in no way in hell could they be seen once put together but I knew they where there lol. My sickness and attention to details no one else would see or know the reasons behind the madness started young lol

 

[Hickster]

Now that is what I had envisioned a year ago when this other butchered crap was coming out. I explained this to a few people as others were slaughtering up bits and pieces. I would have proceeded but there went the warranty. Used 1/2 inch or 3/4 thick insucell- armaflex. You can either slide it on or slice and glue. They also make tape in different thicknesses that is pre glued to cover corners. My other question is when system is off is the fluids normally closed or open? Up north it would be to drain in order not to freeze. The tanks normally drained or left with fluid other than inhibited glycol in it. Just what we do in Florida. System off we can leave liquids left in the system cause it will not freeze. That way there is no air in the system to bleed off with an air separator or extractor. Just wondering if from up north, your set up. Or use a bleeder valve. Air in the system can be a pain in the ass. It can actually stop the system with an air lock. Burn up a pump no matter what size. The condensation can present a problem over the low voltage 3 way valve so, you may want to build a small rubber box to cover the valve for water protection. The black rubber around valving and wires susceptible to water and humidity can rust and dissolve these small wires. Before covering these areas, you can cover this with a water based paint especially for closed cell insulation. Pint- 1/2 pint 2 coats brushed on clean up with water. This coating keeps the water from dry rotting and having moisture attacking from the out side in or want last 6 monts. Coating is not $$. You can have Home Depot tint for 0 costing cause it comes in high gloss white. Important to cover te valves, control valves,. Be careful with your different metals from corrosion. You may have to install dielectric unions from SS, copper, to galvanized or it will dissolve in 8 months and burn the wires. I am sure you realize these situations. If not, contact me.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

System uses normal Dodge purple coolant at at 70/30 ratio water/coolant, it won’t freeze unless it’s -10 or so which it will never see. The motorized ball valves are sealed, IP65 rated,their wiring is sealed and I covered them with nylon mesh for abrasion resistance and fitted soldered and sealed connections to water proof plugs. The insulation is slit self gluing and covered with rubberized tape and along the manifold also has a coating of high temp reflective insulation on top of the foam and rubber tape insulation, it will all withstand wash down duty service. I’m really looking forward to summer to see how well it works. Zoom in on this picture if insulation gets you off lol, after I got started it became a obsession. The fill tank base is insulated with 1/2” insulation and eventually will be fitted with a insulated cover

 

[MurderCat]

Very nice write up OP. Have you had any issues since filling with R134a? Shop my car is at for install says the seals/compressor could go bad after 5 years vs. factory R123yf.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Very nice write up OP. Have you had any issues since filling with R134a? Shop my car is at for install says the seals/compressor could go bad after 5 years vs. factory R123yf.

I run mine 100% of the time. 5000 miles later still as good as day one, no loss of charge at all. You can use the OEM refrigerant instead of 134a, will work just as good.

 

[Hickster]

I told peoples that 5 years ago after looking at the debacle of the ice tank. Been working on these systems for 35 years, but good analogy. Now come up with one that makes ice and of horse runs off refrigerant. Of course called ice storage system. Uses inhibited glycol cause it doesn't freeze but can make ice. Then there is the waste heat system that makes 28 degree water, glycol, or a mixture. It was a matter of time before this took off. Forced Induction Interchiller gets my vote for the price. Good engineering on paper. What tonage is your chiller to the heat exchanger?? 10 to 1, 15 to 1, 8 to 1?? Tonage in the a/c sense.

 

[Hickster]

Foo maan, good job. Now with the super charger to use as call super heat exchanger. The hotter the better. Your colored draftsman's skills out weigh your #7 pencil and paper. Need to size out the piping, 3 way valve cross over. Both refrigerants will work well but I am going with the 134a since in great supply. Can be stolen off of any a/c truck in the green container. After 5 years, seals, urk urk urk, will dry rot used or not. It will loose the charge and be rebuilt. Simple and or cheap. The rubber gives up with hot to cold. Can use Vaseline to help extend the life but some people say the petroleum product is worse. Penetrating oil but back to the same analogy. Rots it faster. Rubber o rings.

 

[fumanchu182]

Finalized them both. A/C and SC side. Attached as JPG and PDF documents.

A/C Side:

Coolant side.


Of note I did the version that I will be doing, adding a three way bypass no expansion tank for the coolant side and a drag valve for the A/C side. If anyone needs those mapped up I can regen the diagrams pretty easily for your needs. Next stop, getting the kit and doing an install write up.

 

[Hickster]

Good job my friend. As long as you have that 3 way by pass valve in there, it is just fine. Very nice. 5/8 tubing with compression fitting or soldered?? Going to insulate the reservoirs with 1/2 inch armaflex glued in place as the cold piping. Looks like your plotter did a great job. Before I install mine I will be making different configurations. 1 will be adding and or expanding the size of the reservoirs. The more fluids the better. Depending on the amount of work space. The refrigerant is another consideration. Do I want to go with the 134a or an ice storage system. Do to the heat we have in Florida. I can do an ice storage system due to running the a/c 11 months out of the year.

 

[fumanchu182]

Good job my friend. As long as you have that 3 way by pass valve in there, it is just fine. Very nice. 5/8 tubing with compression fitting or soldered?? Going to insulate the reservoirs with 1/2 inch armaflex glued in place as the cold piping. Looks like your plotter did a great job.

I have yet to receive the kit but all previous installs look to be PEX or clamp ring compression fittings. I am going to try and insulate the liquid ac line and the cold supercharger line.

 

[Demoniccat]

16GoMan Go. Total bang up job with documenting and presenting as usual. You always go above and beyond for the determined hard core get er done. The fruits of labor will pay back the rewards when it warms out so pavement and tires are able to hook with better cold air charge.

 

[Mean Cat]

Finalized them both. A/C and SC side. Attached as JPG and PDF documents.

A/C Side:
View attachment 63400
Coolant side.
View attachment 63402

Of note I did the version that I will be doing, adding a three way bypass no expansion tank for the coolant side and a drag valve for the A/C side. If anyone needs those mapped up I can regen the diagrams pretty easily for your needs. Next stop, getting the kit and doing an install write up.

That's how I did mine, on coolant side, one addition is the thermal coupler is installed right after pump b4 3 way valve. That way I get a temp reading after s/c & pump on hot side. Performance Pages shows IC chilled temp going to s/c. I can see both temps at the same time.
The delta is normally 3* > 5*.

 

[Hickster]

Delta T is 3 to 5 temps. A perfect setting is 17 degrees. 3 to 5 is basically not taking super heat out of the equation. It is not taking the heat out of the system but just recirculating of doing nothing. Yes, great idea to take a control before and after the valve. We always put as many as we could to make sure we were taking the heat out of the system. Not just too cool the system but to disperse the heat out of the system.
Insulation wise, good. If using 5/8 copper tubing, good size. 3/4 is 7/8 smaller is 3/8 too small. But you can pick up Armaflex tubing in sizes from 3/8 to 1 1/2" at home depot. Purchase the 25/50 Armaflex and not the foam non density type. The cheaper will be pre spil and it will not last long. The Armaflex will take a bit more work but their wesite will tell you all you need to know. You will have to purchase Armstrong 520 adhesive but this completes a good seal. You will need to purchase a larger size to cover the valves and fittings. Need to measure the O/D of the size of the tubing. Say 5/8 tubing then over size will be 5/8 plus the thickness of the size over the tubing. If using 5/8 X 3/4 then 5/8 plus 1.5 to over size the original size. Website will explain, but need to cover all cold services. You can purchase flat stock to make your own.

 

[Mean Cat]

Delta T is 3 to 5 temps. A perfect setting is 17 degrees. 3 to 5 is basically not taking super heat out of the equation. It is not taking the heat out of the system but just recirculating of doing nothing. Yes, great idea to take a control before and after the valve. We always put as many as we could to make sure we were taking the heat out of the system. Not just too cool the system but to disperse the heat out of the system.
Insulation wise, good. If using 5/8 copper tubing, good size. 3/4 is 7/8 smaller is 3/8 too small. But you can pick up Armaflex tubing in sizes from 3/8 to 1 1/2" at home depot. Purchase the 25/50 Armaflex and not the foam non density type. The cheaper will be pre spil and it will not last long. The Armaflex will take a bit more work but their wesite will tell you all you need to know. You will have to purchase Armstrong 520 adhesive but this completes a good seal. You will need to purchase a larger size to cover the valves and fittings. Need to measure the O/D of the size of the tubing. Say 5/8 tubing then over size will be 5/8 plus the thickness of the size over the tubing. If using 5/8 X 3/4 then 5/8 plus 1.5 to over size the original size. Website will explain, but need to cover all cold services. You can purchase flat stock to make your own.

Your way over thinking & over killing this. This is at idle b4 burnout, the ic is not super heat, once it's chilled down & goes through the s/c & pump is the hottest point, then it's chilled again, so if the temp after it goes through the s/c & pump is only 5* over what is being chilled at the entry point to the s/c is pretty good. It will chill to 27* & after loop it's 32*.

 

[Hickster]

Yo Cat,
Sorry to over emphasize the situation but just thinking in industrial terms which I was educated to do. It is the same principal but in a larger term. I do need to let the air out of my tires to calm down. I get off on these thinking tantrums and have to be reeled back in. Thank you. But, if you ever want to learn about???