Let’s build a race car

[covidcommander]

🍿

 

[fumanchu182]

Its been a thrash the last 24 hours. This car was used to mock up in the shop. Hellcat will be the first car to make a power pass then Mikes. Then whatever after.

 

[Unholy707]

It finally came in!! Awesome man! Cant wait to see some videos of it running

 

[Marc W]

Nice!!👍🏼

 

[Unholy707]

Is that the 2k one?

 

[fumanchu182]

2k premium. Easily upgradeable to AWD will max out at 2500-2800hp

 

[covidcommander]

Outstanding addition to the shop

 

[fumanchu182]

Stay tuned, might live stream the Hellcat on the dyno.

 

[fumanchu182]

she made some good power north of 900 easily.

hp:nunya tq:bidness

the important part of the night was learning the dyno software. No tuning, no logging.

 

[DavidKFla]

nice

 

[fumanchu182]

Trying my god damn best to get it ready for this weekend.

kinda stretched at all ends, hellcat was a treat to make a passes on the dyno.

race car not so much, non lockup convertor makes it hard to load it up for the ramp, progress is being made, 14psi of boost, safe 12* of timing. Ill let the holley data speak for itself

 

[fumanchu182]

IF ANYONE IS USING A TH400 READ THIS POST....

Abso-fcking-lutely disregard what you think you know. @zhc and @Marc W are saints with their patience and outright not calling me a fuck tard so for that I am thankful. I was having an absolute nightmare getting the TH400 to go into gears. Well this is the second time Motion Raceworks products have bit me in the ass, the first was their stupid ass sensor block for TH400 cars (fuck that thing it's a pile of shit, the only reason it's still in the car is because I don't have the funds to switch to low-doller motorsports). So the Operator Shifter was adjusted and setup just like in their youtube video. Well it's wrong and I'm telling anyone here now, stick with B&M ratchet pro shifters. To get mine to work I had to work backwards from clean neutral to get third to engage, it's hilariously fickle how a TH400 gets bumped into gear.


Vertical cursor is right before I shifted from R/N to 1.

vertical cursor is right before I shifted from 1 to 2

vertical line is before I went to 2 to 3.

The orange line dips are convertor pressure dropping which is expected as I was not on the gas. It took us a few hours to get it right by then I didn't even want to do a full throttle pull, I was so sick and tired of this shit. It will honestly be a miracle if I get to run Saturday, when doing a prior WOT pull we blew out an oring on the trans cooler so now I need to get that fixed but to be honest the derale cooler is shit and I wish I went with a different brand.

However having the dyno is fucking awesome. My hellcat has made a ton of pulls and it is living it's best life, time to get @Jon-MooredPerformanceLLC to finish the tuning after axle/diff/driveshaftpalooza from 2023...

 

[Marc W]

From what you’re saying about not properly finding the gears with that shifter, it sounds like you have the wrong shifter for the valve body in your trans. The standard and reverse valve bodies have different length throws and a shifter made for one, won’t work properly for the other. You can adjust your ass off and never get it right. For example…. If your shifter finds 1st and 2nd but not 3rd….. wrong shifter. I have a reverse valve body in my 400. I pull back on the lever. There is no clean neutral. I can be in high gear at 7000 rpm and when I let off the gas, the trans freewheels and the rpm will go to idle without me doing anything. That’s some weird shit. I also have an actual reverse position instead of using the transbrake in neutral to back up. The reason I know this about valve body/shifter requirements is because we put a new Paramount built 400 in the blue car. They said it had a different valve body then it in fact did. So…. The shifter for what was supposed to be in there, didnt work. Initially thought it was the shifter (Precision) so we replaced it with a Motion Raceworks. It still didn’t work. Pulled the valve body, and….. oh look. It wasn’t what was supposed to be in there. Once that was determined, rather than deal with that trans builder anymore, we simply got the right shifter from Motion and it worked without any problems.

 

[fumanchu182]

From what you’re saying about not properly finding the gears with that shifter, it sounds like you have the wrong shifter for the valve body in your trans. The standard and reverse valve bodies have different length throws and a shifter made for one, won’t work properly for the other. You can adjust your ass off and never get it right. For example…. If your shifter finds 1st and 2nd but not 3rd….. wrong shifter. I have a reverse valve body in my 400. I pull back on the lever. There is no clean neutral. I can be in high gear at 7000 rpm and when I let off the gas, the trans freewheels and the rpm will go to idle without me doing anything. That’s some weird shit. I also have an actual reverse position instead of using the transbrake in neutral to back up. The reason I know this is because we put a new Paramount built 400 in the blue car. They said it had a different valve body then it in fact did. So…. The shifter for what was supposed to be in there, didnt work. Initially thought it was the shifter (Precision) so we replaced it with a Motion Raceworks. It still didn’t work. Pulled the valve body, and….. oh look. It wasn’t what was supposed to be in there. Once that was determined, rather than deal with that trans builder anymore, we simply got the right shifter from Motion and it worked without any problems.

We verified the valve body, positive clicks for P, R/N, 1, 2, 3, N. Thinking of trashing it and buying a kwik like in the dragpaks