4.5L Whipple 'Murder Cat'

[Jack_Toepfer]

It sounded like one that's all. Ripatuned/Curt @ Dusterhoff tuning just put together a new shop car with their heads/cam/drop-in rods piston package. Spinning to 7400 rpm with plans for 7800-8k. https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=952556701920012&extid=EucMIjhLfbTK2JVV

Whatever makes the car reliable longterm will be what i choose when building the motor/heads. High revving engines are always sweet but the cost of reliability isn't worth it for the end goal. If you're racing for money every season that's another story.

Could just have BES build you the one they built Turk

 

[cole3986]

Could just have BES build you the one they built Turk

Jack,

Wow, that was a haymaker, I was thinking it, how do you really feel about it? FYI, the Hellephant is assembled by BES, I had one and sold it since I am going to be turning 7,900 RPM in the quarter

 

[FFBOS]

We are still early on this platform. At what point are you considering rebuilding a motor that spins to 7k? I know they just threw those drop in’s in the stock motor, I would think it would last a long time.

 

[MurderCat]

Motor will be torn down/built when the dash reads 50k miles or serious internal problems arise. If sticking to the 5" plan hope to keep those stock rods/pistons happy.

Come build time going to make sure everything's blue printed, don't really trust 'drop-ins' long term - main goal is reliability. Definitely don't want a full on race motor like Turks 'Black Bird' that needs refreshing every season or after every race Looking for a setup to last 5-15 years before a re-fresh is needed.

 

[WhipCat]

I’ll use actual data.

I have yet to see a ihi car run a 60-130 on a street pull like this.

This is what wins street races. This is pure acceleration. This is why the whipple is is an awesome street blower.

 

[WhipCat]

Motor will be torn down/built when the dash reads 50k miles or serious internal problems arise. If sticking to the 5" plan hope to keep those stock rods/pistons happy.

Come build time going to make sure everything's blue printed, don't really trust 'drop-ins' long term - main goal is reliability. Definitely don't want a full on race motor like Turks 'Black Bird' that needs refreshing every season or after every race Looking for a setup to last 5-15 years before a re-fresh is needed.

I don’t see a car running heavy boost lasting very long if your driving seriously on it. Especially stock motor. I would give a stock motor 1-2 years max.

I would expect a refresh needed every 2-5 years based on a built motor based on how much driving and how much racing. That’s just fair. Especially if it’s boosted heavily all the time

 

[Hpindy]

I don’t see a car running heavy boost lasting very long if your driving seriously on it. Especially stock motor. I would give a stock motor 1-2 years max.

I would expect a refresh needed every 2-5 years based on a built motor based on how much driving and how much racing. That’s just fair. Especially if it’s boosted heavily all the time

That's one of the down sides to E85..... You can run big power all the time which wears out parts quicker .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[FFBOS]

That's one of the down sides to E85..... You can run big power all the time which wears out parts quicker .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

Not a “problem” lol. It’s a drug.

 

[Hpindy]

Not a “problem” lol. It’s a drug.

I'm going to be honest here thats one of the things keep my engine alive...... The ultra soft pump gas tune I'm running.


Are you guys on E85 eligible to go to AA meetings?

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[FFBOS]

E85 is great fuel. Just have to know the limits.

 

[MurderCat]

I’ll use actual data.

I have yet to see a ihi car run a 60-130 on a street pull like this.

This is what wins street races. This is pure acceleration. This is why the whipple is is an awesome street blower.

View attachment 25172

We have some work to do now. Ripatuned RT900+ package (upper lower, bolt ons, OEM redeye S/C) just did 4.83 60-130.

 

[WhipCat]

We have some work to do now. Ripatuned RT900+ package (upper lower, bolt ons, OEM redeye S/C) just did 4.83 60-130.
View attachment 25175

At the drag strip. That’s pretty common for mid to high nine second pass.

Do it on the street on radials

 

[Hpindy]

At the drag strip. That’s pretty common for mid to high nine second pass.

Do it on the street on radials

What radials?
I can blow the pirelli's off at 70 mph.
And what is this you guys are getting the screen shot from ...... I want to play.

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[WhipCat]

What radials?
I can blow the pirelli's off at 70 mph.
And what is this you guys are getting the screen shot from ...... I want to play.

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

It’s a dragy. Get one. It gives you very good metrics on your car. Allows to you see your acceleration and 1/8,1/4,1/2 mile times.

Tires are Mickey Thompson ET/R 305 20”

I’ve Never run a street tire on the rear of my car ever

 

[Hpindy]

It’s a dragy. Get one. It gives you very good metrics on your car. Allows to you see your acceleration and 1/8,1/4,1/2 mile times.

Tires are Mickey Thompson ET/R 305 20”

I’ve Never run a street tire on the rear of my car ever

Excellent...... I will look into one of those .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[WhipCat]

Excellent...... I will look into one of those .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

Correction Indy they are the S/S

The R’s i run on my 17 racestars, they can also street drive but are to scary in the rain. I run the street s/s which is nice and sticky but better in wet and rainy roads. Those are on my 20” vossen wheels. Great street strip tire.
I’ve run 9.90-10.1 in the 1/4 on these right from the street to the drag strip. Excellent tire, but they wear fast. Usually change them every 3-4 months.

https://mickeythompsontires.com/drag-tires/et-street-s-s

 

[Hpindy]

Correction Indy they are the S/S

The R’s i run on my 17 racestars, they can also street drive but are to scary in the rain. I run the street s/s which is nice and sticky but better in wet and rainy roads. Those are on my 20” vossen wheels. Great street strip tire.
I’ve run 9.90-10.1 in the 1/4 on these right from the street to the drag strip. Excellent tire, but they wear fast. Usually change them every 3-4 months.

https://mickeythompsontires.com/drag-tires/et-street-s-s

I'm always shopping for a good set of tires . I get caught in the rain from time to time and I road this car as much as I can . So the street R's are out of the question. I don't care about the wear so much . They are consumable in my opinion.

Thanks Phil

James

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[MurderCat]

At the drag strip. That’s pretty common for mid to high nine second pass.

Do it on the street on radials

Stand corrected, took another look you are right that was from a 9.42@149mph pass at the strip with a 15" drag pack.

 

[WhipCat]

Stand corrected, took another look you are right that was from a 9.42@149mph pass at the strip with a 15" drag pack.

All good. 4’s is nuts on the street. If it was true that would be very insanely impressive.

 

[zhc]

Great response, however, IATs are much lower using an ice tank IMO. At Dan's event in Kentucky my IATs were below 90 F and it is was super hot day (well over 90 degrees). Maybe I am just ill informed, anyone with the chiller system seeing IATs in the 80s or below on a real hot day?

I went back and modified my previous post, it was too extreme

I use a Killer Chiller with a small 1.25 gallon tank, no ice and this is what I see normally.

Mine start low, in the 80's give or take and end up somewhere between 115 - 130F by end of the pass. I have custom Nitrous spray bars located below my IAT sensors so my temp readings are unaffected by Nitrous usage. I'm sure they're super cold though going into the intake ports with spray, it just doesn't read that way in my logs.

2019 lines were when I my IHI with a 2.50 upper + lower.
2020 lines were with my Whipple

Starting temp variance is more related to heat soak than anything else since it requires running the engine to chill the fluids. If I start the car thinking I have 5 minutes before making a pass, and there's a delay, then I generally see higher temps as a result because of the ensuing heat soak that occurs.

Surprisingly, I see similar temps now with my Whipple versus before with my IHI using the same cooling setup.



Chiller's are a viable option, when they work right. I've been fortunate enough to get mine to work well 98% of the time. There are others out there who haven't been as lucky.