Bad day in ok

[Sudden]

Well, just my luck. I now have an extra hole in my block. I was just out playing with the car this afternoon and floored it at about 65. About 1 second later it came apart. Not really sure what went wrong or how much is damaged yet but I can see the hole in the block. I have a simple build with 2.85 upper,injectors and fuel pumps. I have had this set up for 2 years with no problems. It is flex fuel tuned and I had drum E85 in it. I ran the car two weeks ago on the same fuel and went 10.07 @ 140.63 in cooler weather with lower da. Looking for suggestions on short blocks. Might need more than that,won’t know until we get it apart. I wasn’t financially prepared for this so nobody’s getting Christmas presents.

 

[Stormtrooper1320]

Arrington Performance

MMX

Hemituner

Those are the first 3 places off the top of my head. I'm sure others will chime in.

 

[vortecd]

Curious what tuner will say what happened

 

[Sudden]

I wasn’t logging the run. I’ll just have to see how much is damaged. Thanks for the info. I had forgotten about Arrington.

 

[BULL]

Well, just my luck. I now have an extra hole in my block. I was just out playing with the car this afternoon and floored it at about 65. About 1 second later it came apart. Not really sure what went wrong or how much is damaged yet but I can see the hole in the block. I have a simple build with 2.85 upper,injectors and fuel pumps. I have had this set up for 2 years with no problems. It is flex fuel tuned and I had drum E85 in it. I ran the car two weeks ago on the same fuel and went 10.07 @ 140.63 in cooler weather with lower da. Looking for suggestions on short blocks. Might need more than that,won’t know until we get it apart. I wasn’t financially prepared for this so nobody’s getting Christmas presents.

Sorry you're having a bad day

Daily driver?

 

[Bowtie Guy]

That SUCKS !!!
Sounds like a rod went south ?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

VERY sorry to hear. You know which cylinder let loose? 10.07 a great pass and 141 a great mph for a 2.85 pulley on E85, that’s about my fastest mph on a 2.85 with massaged blower on 85% E making 17.5-17.75 psi of boost top of 4 th gear (M6). (I’m a built engine now, my stock engine was on the edge of letting loose with this same combo last year. Tear down revealed ring butting on pistons 2 and 7, 7 actually missing a piece of piston in the ring relief brow, still was turning 140 1/4’s and making 940 wheel on the dyno just days before I tore it down) That tune I’m running now and then is set up to wring just about everything out of that fuel and boost combo to get 141 out of a 1/4.
Can you post a screen shot of your Alcohol WOT timing table and screen shot or 2 of a couple, or highest set knock sensor table and knock window setting table.
Curious where I’m at versus where your at when your misfortune occurred.

This is the mph I’m turning on street 1/4 practice, pretty much ditto of yours. I’m betting on tear down your going to find the top half of a piston near the top of a bore (loose now but got stuck there from ring butting when it got hot) and the bottom half gone and wrist pin missing as it was the projectile that made the window.
How much boost you making? What was ambient temp when this occurred?

 

[vortecd]

VERY sorry to hear. You know which cylinder let loose? 10.07 a great pass and 141 a great mph for a 2.85 pulley on E85, that’s about my fastest mph on a 2.85 with massaged blower on 85% E making 17.5-17.75 psi of boost top of 4 th gear (M6). (I’m a built engine now, my stock engine was on the edge of letting loose with this same combo last year. Tear down revealed ring butting on pistons 2 and 7, 7 actually missing a piece of piston in the ring relief brow, still was turning 140 1/4’s and making 940 wheel on the dyno just days before I tore it down) That tune I’m running now and then is set up to wring just about everything out of that fuel and boost combo to get 141 out of a 1/4.
Can you post a screen shot of your Alcohol WOT timing table and screen shot or 2 of a couple, or highest set knock sensor table and knock window setting table.
Curious where I’m at versus where your at when your misfortune occurred.

This is the mph I’m turning on street 1/4 practice, pretty much ditto of yours. I’m betting on tear down your going to find the top half of a piston near the top of a bore (loose now but got stuck there from ring butting when it got hot) and the bottom half gone and wrist pin missing as it was the projectile that made the window.
How much boost you making? What was ambient temp when this occurred? View attachment 58110

Your mph and his really are not apple to apples. He did it at a track hooking where I'm sure you had to come out easy on the street to make your run. I bet if you hooked at the track you would be 5-10 mph more

 

[vortecd]

Arrington Performance

MMX

Hemituner

Those are the first 3 places off the top of my head. I'm sure others will chime in.

Myself I would look into Arrington. Mike Copeland (owner) has been at the NMCA races and behind the Hemi Shootouts and sponsors the quick 8
Also for me they are only 1.5 hours away
Still not understanding how some are breaking while others run for years with the same combo. I know tuning has a lot to do with it but would think by now everyone should know what is safe and what isn't

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Your mph and his really are not apple to apples. He did it at a track hooking where I'm sure you had to come out easy on the street to make your run. I bet if you hooked at the track you would be 5-10 mph more

I keep a detailed log of every 1/4 this car has ever run short of instrument malfunction where except for car data data wasn’t captured. I even set my Gtech while at the track and record runs for comparison to track data, the Gtech always within a few hundredths if not closer to track marker times. What I’ve noticed is 1/4 end mph is always about the same no mater if I’m on the track or the street, I use it as a judge of HP being made and it rings true most always. Even if I have shitty launches on the street (usual street 60’ varies from 1.950 to 2.400 and make a big difference in ET but not MPH) my 1/4 mph never varies much, DA makes more of a variance in top end mph then my 60 ft times on the street verse the track do, I track DA with every run as well. Just my observations of 3 years of trying to run 10 second street 1/4’s. . Here’s a prime example of ET verse MPH on the street. This is a 1/4 run on 93, the HP is not there but I hooked excellently due to perfect clutch throttle interaction, closest I’ve come to a 10 second street run so far. It’s too cold here now for good ET’s, I’ll do 141-143 1/4’s in this cold (30F) air but times will be high 11’s. I also use my 60-130 and 60-140 times as a judge if tune changes are making more or less power. The Gtech (and I use a Draggy too to back up the Gtech, I find the Gtech more accurate to track timers so I use its data predominantly)
The 11.4 run produced a decent street 60 ft time but hitting second gear spun like mad and spun again on the 3-4 shift (dips in the graph) spoiling what would have most likely been a high 10 second street pass, that was on corn. The 130 mph 11.0 pass was on 93 where the lower power and tq of 93 made spin control more manageable and produced the best street 60’ I’ve ever logged on the street, if the top end power of corn was there for that pass that would have been a mid 10 second street 1/4 no doubt. It’s a tough thing being quick with a stick, even tougher to be consistently quick with a stick, but when you get it all just right it’s sure brings a BIG smile.
Edits spelling corrections

 

[Slipaway16]

https://betterbuiltperformance.com/

Without a doubt, this is who I'd use.

@Primetime Hellcat 17 has one of their engines.

 

[Sudden]

Sorry you're having a bad day

Daily driver?

Thank God this is not a daily driver. I did such a mild build to avoid this kind of problem. Of course with my luck it got me anyway. Might as well turn it up now.

 

[Speedy!]

It's not only the build it's how much power a stock motor can take. Anything over 850rwhp on a stock engine is in the realm of might have a problem from what I've seen. 141mph in the 1/4 is well past that I think.

 

[Primetime Hellcat 17]

https://betterbuiltperformance.com/

Without a doubt, this is who I'd use.

@Primetime Hellcat 17 has one of their engines.

Yup so far so good. Marc W a member in here has a long block built by Alex at betterbuilt as well. Marc’s Hellcat is in the 8’s.
I had a 426 short block and cam package built by them. In my opinion whoever it is you choose have them beef up the block to handle more HP than what you are pushing.
Contact Alex at BBP and he will set you up.

 

[Sudden]

That SUCKS !!!
Sounds like a rod went south ?

Officially I was going south,number 7 went west. It’s getting warm enough for me to crawl under it and check the other side pretty soon. By the way temperature was about 60 when this happened. So just slightly warmer than my track day two weeks ago that was about 0 da.

 

[Sudden]

It's not only the build it's how much power a stock motor can take. Anything over 850rwhp on a stock engine is in the realm of might have a problem from what I've seen. 141mph in the 1/4 is well past that I think.

When the build was done it made 823 on the dyno and it was only about 55 in the shop. I just broke the 140 mark with my new Hoosier dbr. They are lighter than my et street r were. So I think I was right in that range.

 

[Sudden]

Yup so far so good. Marc W a member in here has a long block built by Alex at betterbuilt as well. Marc’s Hellcat is in the 8’s.
I had a 426 short block and cam package built by them. In my opinion whoever it is you choose have them beef up the block to handle more HP than what you are pushing.
Contact Alex at BBP and he will set you up.

Thank you for the info and input. I always read on here about everyone’s builds and thought is was cool but not something I would really do. Now that it’s forced on me I will join the club but still not sure how much more power to build. I would love to get those 9 second time slips but don’t want to go down a rabbit hole of changing everything on the car and not being very street friendly.

 

[Speedy!]

When the build was done it made 823 on the dyno and it was only about 55 in the shop. I just broke the 140 mark with my new Hoosier dbr. They are lighter than my et street r were. So I think I was right in that range.

It was probably close, and 850 is just a general rule of thumb. Did I understand correctly that it was cylinder 7 that broke? If so that's the same one mine broke, and several others so something is funny with number 7 on a stock HC motor.

I replaced mine with a Mopar Demon/Redeye long block and it's been great. Lots of beefed up parts in them compared to a standard HC motor.

 

[Marc W]

https://betterbuiltperformance.com/

Without a doubt, this is who I'd use.

@Primetime Hellcat 17 has one of their engines.

Thats who built my 8 second 426. No issues with my 1200+ WHP stroker built by them.

 

[vortecd]

I keep a detailed log of every 1/4 this car has ever run short of instrument malfunction where except for car data data wasn’t captured. I even set my Gtech while at the track and record runs for comparison to track data, the Gtech always within a few hundredths if not closer to track marker times. What I’ve noticed is 1/4 end mph is always about the same no mater if I’m on the track or the street, I use it as a judge of HP being made and it rings true most always. Even if I have shitty launches on the street (usual street 60’ varies from 1.950 to 2.400 and make a big difference in ET but not MPH) my 1/4 mph never varies much, DA makes more of a variance in top end mph then my 60 ft times on the street verse the track do, I track DA with every run as well. Just my observations of 3 years of trying to run 10 second street 1/4’s. . Here’s a prime example of ET verse MPH on the street. This is a 1/4 run on 93, the HP is not there but I hooked excellently due to perfect clutch throttle interaction, closest I’ve come to a 10 second street run so far. It’s too cold here now for good ET’s, I’ll do 141-143 1/4’s in this cold (30F) air but times will be high 11’s. I also use my 60-130 and 60-140 times as a judge if tune changes are making more or less power. The Gtech (and I use a Draggy too to back up the Gtech, I find the Gtech more accurate to track timers so I use its data predominantly)
The 11.4 run produced a decent street 60 ft time but hitting second gear spun like mad and spun again on the 3-4 shift (dips in the graph) spoiling what would have most likely been a high 10 second street pass, that was on corn. The 130 mph 11.0 pass was on 93 where the lower power and tq of 93 made spin control more manageable and produced the best street 60’ I’ve ever logged on the street, if the top end power of corn was there for that pass that would have been a mid 10 second street 1/4 no doubt. It’s a tough thing being quick with a stick, even tougher to be consistently quick with a stick, but when you get it all just right it’s sure brings a BIG smile.
Edits spelling corrections
View attachment 58111 View attachment 58112 View attachment 58113 View attachment 58114 View attachment 58115

I guess what I'm saying in my mustang with a certain dr's I had to easy into it off the line, it wasn't a dead hook and I would run 142-143 mph. After changing tires to one where it hooked and I was able to add timing only under 5,000 rpm it was running 148-150. I was asked how I picked up so much mph and time and I said I was able to floor it and it hooked. Being you have a stick I know on the street you can't do that and would think you are slipping the clutch to get it to hook at the track so a dead hook foot to the floor would yield more mph