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UPDATE - Found a Cat trailer that looks pretty good, is there anything I’m missing?

Keith Richards

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#21
What's the speed rating?
No idea, but here I don't go much over 62 as with trailer legal limit is 55. Couple years ago I had to go back and forth a few trips to Wyoming and ran 80 (truck-trailer can run that in Nev - Utah - Wy), no issues with this set up........

9zPVHPbw.jpeg
 


Jimmy N.

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#22
5lug, 2x3500 axles.

If I had a 3/4t, I'd go 10k, probably a steel tilt. Almost bought one. It was 1700# heavier.
A 10K rated trailer will just beat up your 'Cat, unless it's air ride. 5,200 is ideal I think, but with an aluminum trailer 3,500 will work, just keep an eye on the bearings.

I put L-track on mine so I could use wheel nets and/or wheel straps. I'm one of those that refuse to tie to unsprung weight.


IMG_4385.JPG IMG_4386.JPG
 


MMissile

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#23
Whatever. Show us yours.

Towed 1000’s of miles, it runs down the road just great with that heavy car etc.
This is my 6th trailer. This has 2-7500lb axles. 14 years old, and the spare has never seen the ground. It's been everywhere, and on it's 2nd set of tires... due to age-cracking sidewalls.
Krusty pick-up morning 5-11-23.jpg

This was ungainly, but served it's purpose when I ran Nostalgia Pro-Stock.
post dually rig at Salem.jpg
 


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MMissile

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#24
My advice is to buy the best trailer that you can afford. Make sure it has lots more load capacity than you think you'll ever use because you will use it.

You need at least 20' for the cat. My open was a 24' and it sat nicely on the trailer with 0 overhang.

Does this 1 have 6 lugs?

This is just my opinion.
View attachment 126152
Great advise. Better to have more than you currently need. I've always wanted an aluminum trailer, but couldn't pull the trigger. So nice.
 


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Jimmy N.

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#25
I've transported all kinds of vehicles on my 18-foot trailer, but recently decided to look into getting a 20-footer.
Well, they don't seem to make this kind anymore, so I'll either add a foot or two to this one, or simply leave well enough alone. DSCN2112.JPG DSCN2124.JPG
 


DavidKFla

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#26
I've transported all kinds of vehicles on my 18-foot trailer, but recently decided to look into getting a 20-footer.
Well, they don't seem to make this kind anymore, so I'll either add a foot or two to this one, or simply leave well enough alone. View attachment 126241 View attachment 126242
I like the trailer to take the hit if possible.
 


Jimmy N.

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#27
I like the trailer to take the hit if possible.
Yeah, that's partially what made my think about a longer one. But if you look at the Challenger on the trailer you'll see that it could've been moved forward by over a foot.

Of course, my unfair advantage is that by driving fast, the odds of getting rear ended are minimized.

Anyway, at 16.5 feet a Challenger fits fine on an 18-foot trailer. Even a gooseneck where there's a "wall" in the front.
 


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#28
Yeah, that's partially what made my think about a longer one. But if you look at the Challenger on the trailer you'll see that it could've been moved forward by over a foot.

Of course, my unfair advantage is that by driving fast, the odds of getting rear ended are minimized.

Anyway, at 16.5 feet a Challenger fits fine on an 18-foot trailer. Even a gooseneck where there's a "wall" in the front.
You can see in the picture that I posted with the Challenger that it has plenty of room on both ends. Enough for additional tires and gear.
 


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#29
No idea, but here I don't go much over 62 as with trailer legal limit is 55. Couple years ago I had to go back and forth a few trips to Wyoming and ran 80 (truck-trailer can run that in Nev - Utah - Wy), no issues with this set up........

View attachment 126184
When we were pulling the ATC, we would find ourselves going 75 or more at times. The tires were rated for 75.
 


Jimmy N.

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#30
You can see in the picture that I posted with the Challenger that it has plenty of room on both ends. Enough for additional tires and gear.
I try to put as little as possible on or in trailers, and have the tow vehicle be as heavy as possible.

When we were pulling the ATC, we would find ourselves going 75 or more at times. The tires were rated for 75.
Those original tires on the little gooseneck were replaced recently, due to age. Think they were rated at 60-something, but were subjected to 80 more often than not. The new ones are rated at over 80.
 


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#31
I try to put as little as possible on or in trailers, and have the tow vehicle be as heavy as possible.



Those original tires on the little gooseneck were replaced recently, due to age. Think they were rated at 60-something, but were subjected to 80 more often than not. The new ones are rated at over 80.
If it's a race trailer, you want to keep your gear in the trailer for faster loading next time. Cuts down on the work.

If I would of continued, it would of been built out with more comfort things.
 


Jimmy N.

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#32
If it's a race trailer, you want to keep your gear in the trailer for faster loading next time. Cuts down on the work.

If I would of continued, it would of been built out with more comfort things.
If I feel lazy I take the longer gooseneck, with the hydraulic tail. Quicker and easier than even aluminum ramps. And all the tie-down stuff goes in the trailer's tool box either way.
 


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#33
If I feel lazy I take the longer gooseneck, with the hydraulic tail. Quicker and easier than even aluminum ramps. And all the tie-down stuff goes in the trailer's tool box either way.
It's better just to have everything setup for use. Digging through shit sucks.
 


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#34
It's better just to have everything setup for use. Digging through shit sucks.
It does. Which is why ratchets, stake pocket D-rings, lasso straps, axle straps, ratchet straps, wheel nets, etc. are in their own cardboard boxes in the toolbox.

I always bring more than I need (for a couple of reasons) and especially when picking up a vehicle I've never tied down before. My go to is lasso straps, with added fuzzy wraps for when going through the wheels.

But all it takes to have to change a plan is a valve stem in the wrong place, or inside wheel weights.
 


Bowlerguy92

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#35
Found a 2021 Rance 20’ 7k alum trailer, weighs 1335# so gross weight would be about 5835#. Light weight is important because I’m towing with a 1/2t.

It will be summer towing only so road salt will not be an issue.

Asking price is $6500. I can get a cheap steel 7k trailer for $4k new, but 700# more weight. I like steel better, but the light weight should be much easier on the 1/2t truck and much more driveable.

I have never trailered a Cat, only boats, horses, dirt and stone, so thoughts and advice would be appreciated.

(BTW: He has a nice garage!)

View attachment 126151
My car would have looked great on there back in October
 


OP
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Thread Starter #36
My car would have looked great on there back in October
If it weren't for you and Stan, I never would have considered a trailer. But after watching 2 HC's flatbedded away, one several hundred miles from home, my perspective has evolved. Besides, it's easier to purge the fuel at home and fill with 100 octane. And I won't be burning up $70 in 100 fuel going from the Airb&b to the runway and back every day!

You're bringing the purple monster to Land Speed Trials this year I hope!

(Edit: Corrected misspelling.)
 


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Thread Starter #37
One other thing to double check is width, between fenders or rails. I believe a wide body Hellcat is 79" and my Featherlite posted above and here is 78-7/8" inside of the raised rails. I didn't buy it for that as that is obviously too tight and if I need to haul it I will have to use my 24' Enclosed Pace as it is 82" between wheel wells which is tight as well.

View attachment 126183
I'm a NB guy so I think I'm ok. "Interior Width" spec is 80". Besides, the fenders are removable. Thanks for the heads up!
 


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Thread Starter #38
View attachment 126157
20’ tilt aluminum. I load the shit out of the trunk and add four corners of about 65 lbs.:p I also road race it, so I am a bit stubborn. You have no problem with that trailer. One thing, check out how easy or hard it is to load. This one tilts, but we also use a set of helpers to make it smooth and easy with no problems. Our little Grand Cherokee did tow it b4 the Durango with the weak back springs took over. The rear of the Durango will be taken care of b4 it ever tows again.
View attachment 126159
I expect to make or buy something to reduce approach angle, I can easily weld up a ramp extension. Can you forward the link to what you are using? Thanks!
 


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#39
I expect to make or buy something to reduce approach angle, I can easily weld up a ramp extension. Can you forward the link to what you are using? Thanks!
Get a power jack and use it to reduce the angle.
 


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Thread Starter #40
A 10K rated trailer will just beat up your 'Cat, unless it's air ride. 5,200 is ideal I think, but with an aluminum trailer 3,500 will work, just keep an eye on the bearings.

I put L-track on mine so I could use wheel nets and/or wheel straps. I'm one of those that refuse to tie to unsprung weight.


View attachment 126185 View attachment 126186
Funny you should say that. I looked at 2 other mfr's of alum trailers and they both warned me away from their 7k recommending the 10k, maybe their spec was optimistic? I contacted Rance, they the 4500# HC should be fine. They further stated a trailer rated for a load higher than the actual load will cause a more harsh ride for the Cat. Made sense to me, but I'm only an engineer.
 




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