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Anyone try using Line Lock to launch?

2ndAmend

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#1
When I foot break my launch, I get good results starting at 1300rpm. If I try to launch at 1500, the car sputters, just like in Launch Control, and is slower.

I need a more aggressive launch, I am getting no spin starting at 1300 and stomping on it. I need a way to launch more aggressively.

When I do my burnout I noticed the rears would not break loose until I was significantly on the throttle. I think I might be able to hold 1500, maybe 2000 with line lock then launch by releasing the button and stomping.

Has anyone tried this?

(Don't talk to me about lunch control.)
 


vortecd

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#2
Never tried the line lock on launch. My dad and others with GNs would set the emergency brake to try to build boost.
I have tried about every launch and have found just a little rpm and go is best for me. It may flash the convertor better then loading it up. Plus I don't have to worry about pushing through the beams
 


OP
2ndAmend

2ndAmend

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Thread Starter #3
Nice thing about Track Rental is if you fk up you can back up and try again. You get what you pay for. :)
 


Unholy707

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#4
Too unreliable it doesn’t instantly release. Is this factory line lock or z automtive? Z automotive will turn traction control back on every time right after
 


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2ndAmend

2ndAmend

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Thread Starter #5
Too unreliable it doesn’t instantly release. Is this factory line lock or z automtive? Z automotive will turn traction control back on every time right after
I am not racing so a poor RT is irrelevant.

I really need more power at launch and the car won't let me by foot breaking. Again, I am a novice, I don't know how to make this all work.

Since I am getting no spin, no matter how hard I try, I think I can get a better ET with a harder launch, just can't figure how to do that.

Anyone have experience and suggestions?
 


Unholy707

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#6
I’m not talking about rt I’m talking about timing of when you floor it and the line lock actually disengages, you floor it with the line lock still activated that’s no good. Also why I asked if it’s the z automotive line lock you’re using, because it turns full nannies back once you release it. That’s why 2 steps are usually pedal activated and a trans brake is used to hold the car still and load converter
 


vortecd

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#7
I am not racing so a poor RT is irrelevant.

I really need more power at launch and the car won't let me by foot breaking. Again, I am a novice, I don't know how to make this all work.

Since I am getting no spin, no matter how hard I try, I think I can get a better ET with a harder launch, just can't figure how to do that.

Anyone have experience and suggestions?
Car will always be faster with a harder launch but you are at the limit of what it will do. You just can't make it launch at 3,000 rpm. The convertor is the limiting factor of what it can stall at. I have foot braked my car to nearly 2000 rpm and I have left slightly above idle and everything in between. I like leaving just above idle getting tension on the drivetrain. That shock from near idle can flash the convertor to maybe a little more rpm. There are people that say they get their best time leaving at the highest rpm they can get the car to go out. I found in the past (30+ years ago) when trying to push the car as high as you can it may push through the lights and screw up your time or you loose your run

You need to try different launching technics. After you pre-stage try to just get the next yellow on. You want to be as shallow as possible because it is like getting a head start. The deeper you stage or even deep stage turning the 1st yellow off will give you a slower time
 


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2ndAmend

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Thread Starter #8
I’m not talking about rt I’m talking about timing of when you floor it and the line lock actually disengages, you floor it with the line lock still activated that’s no good. Also why I asked if it’s the z automotive line lock you’re using, because it turns full nannies back once you release it. That’s why 2 steps are usually pedal activated and a trans brake is used to hold the car still and load converter
I am stock with DC Stage 2.
 


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2ndAmend

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Thread Starter #9
Car will always be faster with a harder launch but you are at the limit of what it will do. You just can't make it launch at 3,000 rpm. The convertor is the limiting factor of what it can stall at. I have foot braked my car to nearly 2000 rpm and I have left slightly above idle and everything in between. I like leaving just above idle getting tension on the drivetrain. That shock from near idle can flash the convertor to maybe a little more rpm. There are people that say they get their best time leaving at the highest rpm they can get the car to go out. I found in the past (30+ years ago) when trying to push the car as high as you can it may push through the lights and screw up your time or you loose your run

You need to try different launching technics. After you pre-stage try to just get the next yellow on. You want to be as shallow as possible because it is like getting a head start. The deeper you stage or even deep stage turning the 1st yellow off will give you a slower time
Thanks. When I did the 10.018 it was 52deg and the Chiller was inoperative. Friday forecast is high of 59deg so Chiller should be available. If the forecast holds I'll give it a shot and hope for the best.
 


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Thread Starter #10
Last Wed I did 8 runs:

10.102, first run starting at idle and stomping on it
10.050, foot breaking to 1200
10.089, foot breaking to 1500 with sputtering
10.018, foot breaking to 1300, highest I could get without sputtering
10.069, launch control at 1800
10.028, foot breaking at 1300
10.064, foot breaking at 1500, sputtering
10.028, foot breaking at 1300

Wind was 15 with gusts up to 25 from the front left, could have been a factor. Looking at the 3 runs foot breaking at max before sputtering, there was only a .01 variation. I achieved consistency. Just need a bit more, either air, temp, wind, launch, and/or luck!
 


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#11
Try the stage 6 two step it works off the foot brake. 2 steps are a lot of stress on blower blades tho.....
 


OP
2ndAmend

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Thread Starter #12
Try the stage 6 two step it works off the foot brake. 2 steps are a lot of stress on blower blades tho.....
Remember I am a novice, please explain, thanks.
 




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