DRAGRCR RED EYES

[DRAGRCR]

X

 

[MaxCarnage]

I might have been misinformed. Actually, I think the person I asked, did not install it himself. So maybe he misunderstood what I was asking. There are good videos on YouTube. Search "MPVI2 with smart access cable"

Yup there are a couple okay videos I've watched. Either by removing the radio or going threw the center console. I think HP Tuners recommends going threw the radio to install it. Mostly I'm just wanting to know if having that smart access cable installed interferes at all with Dodge reading/clearing codes in any way. I'd rather not have to remove it every time I go to the dealership. So I'm waiting on a reply from Curt to see if he knows. Hoping I can just leave it installed. If I can't, well I'll just have to sit on this stuff for awhile I guess.

FYI in the charger the smart cable goes by the kick panel of the obd2 port instead.

The cable I believe the person you asked about is just the usb cable that connects from laptop to MPVI2. The smart access cable is different entirely and is needed for the MPVI2 to access the OBD2 port on 18+ Dodges.

 

[MaxCarnage]

I wanted to share Curt's response to the smart cable for MPVI2:

"The dealer can still connect to the pc to read codes, clear them flash etc with the smart access cable installed. There's no reason to remove it.

There are some instructions with the smart access cable but they aren't great. The cable installs behind the uconnect screen. If you go to hptuners.com you should be able to find a good bit of information about their software and the mpvi2."

Looks like I can install that smart access cable without worry that it will interfere with anything Dodge needs to do.

 

[Marc0779]

I might have been misinformed. Actually, I think the person I asked, did not install it himself. So maybe he misunderstood what I was asking. There are good videos on YouTube. Search "MPVI2 with smart access cable"

You can install the bypass cable in the trunk by the battery it can plug into the can bus back there,thsts how i did mine,i ran a longer cable to thepassenger seat area to plug in my laptop,no need to take apart your dash

 

[DRAGRCR]

X

 

[DRAGRCR]

X

 

[Marc0779]

Hey Marc. Are you talking about the Double Bypass cable from Z-Automotive? Were you able to copy your stock tune files for PCM/TCM etc. using HP Tuners?

Yes thats the cable,you can copy any file,and you can use your normal obd port for anything you want and you wont have a cord draped over the steering wheel

 

[Markp]

@DRAGRCR next time your at the track take a look at your cat overtemp. When Hpindy data logged my car it was pulling power on the big end because of cat overtemp. You really have to let these cars cool down between runs. You have to wait long enough for the cats to cool down not just the engine. I went to the track on Sunday and my first run was a 10.59@132 then as the cats got hot I couldn't even trap in the 130s again. My best pass was 10.394@129.31mph and the car was pulling power on the big end. I looked at my slips from the fall and I was 3-4 mph off even with a better ET and skinnies this time. One of my passes when I didn't let it cool down and did a back to back run was 10.60@ 125mph. Please let me know if you run into this cat overtemp issue.

 

[Phast Hemi]

You can install the bypass cable in the trunk by the battery it can plug into the can bus back there,thsts how i did mine,i ran a longer cable to thepassenger seat area to plug in my laptop,no need to take apart your dash

Marc, are you referring to the Joe Z bypass cable ( trunk mount)? Or did you install the hP tuners cable there? Not sure if the Demon employs the same security gateway as the 19+ red-eyes...

 

[DRAGRCR]

X

 

[Maxboost]

I did the z automotive bypass that hooks up under your front driver and pass foot wells. Personally I ended up not really using it.

 

[Maxboost]

@DRAGRCR next time your at the track take a look at your cat overtemp. When Hpindy data logged my car it was pulling power on the big end because of cat overtemp. You really have to let these cars cool down between runs. You have to wait long enough for the cats to cool down not just the engine. I went to the track on Sunday and my first run was a 10.59@132 then as the cats got hot I couldn't even trap in the 130s again. My best pass was 10.394@129.31mph and the car was pulling power on the big end. I looked at my slips from the fall and I was 3-4 mph off even with a better ET and skinnies this time. One of my passes when I didn't let it cool down and did a back to back run was 10.60@ 125mph. Please let me know if you run into this cat overtemp issue.

That was normal for my car. I was planning on adding some spark arresters to the 02’s but ended up just tuning it. I still run the cats but I’m not sure if cot is off or just raised up. I Have never logged it coming on again after the tune. Definitely a lot of room to desensitize it or just remove the cats.

 

[Markp]

That was normal for my car. I was planning on adding some spark arresters to the 02’s but ended up just tuning it. I still run the cats but I’m not sure if cot is off or just raised up. I Have never logged it coming on again after the tune. Definitely a lot of room to desensitize it or just remove the cats.

I am running my car stock until I cannot go any faster so tuning is out of the question for now. I know I can get this car in to the 10.2s maybe lower. Is there anyway to stop this besides something crazy like trying to ice the cats? Can you explain the adding spark arrestors to the 02 sensors? Also if the spark arrestors work what do you guys think can I still claim the car as stock? I am a stickler for these kind of things. I really don't want to wait a hour between runs and sometimes the cot still comes on. Also if @DRAGRCR is running the car in the heat without a very very long cool down the cot may be the problem as Hpindy explained to me when the cot comes on the car will dump a ton a fuel to cool down the cats??? Maybe it is coming on early for him? or it is compounding his issue with the shifts???

 

[Maxboost]

I am running my car stock until I cannot go any faster so tuning is out of the question for now. I know I can get this car in to the 10.2s maybe lower. Is there anyway to stop this besides something crazy like trying to ice the cats? Can you explain the adding spark arrestors to the 02 sensors? Also if the spark arrestors work what do you guys think can I still claim the car as stock? I am a stickler for these kind of things. I really don't want to wait a hour between runs and sometimes the cot still comes on. Also if @DRAGRCR is running the car in the heat without a very very long cool down the cot may be the problem as Hpindy explained to me when the cot comes on the car will dump a ton a fuel to cool down the cats??? Maybe it is coming on early for him? or it is compounding his issue with the shifts???

If I seen you had messed with the 02’s I would say your not stock. Keeping the car cooler and running when it’s cooler is the only way for you. I wouldn’t think your car would be hitting cot in 1st or 2nd but definitely could be in 3rd if it’s hot. Stock mine was coming on above 5k in 3rd as it’s just part of the stock tuning. Cot is a calculation of different parameters, I was planning on acting like my car had no cats and adding sims for the 02. The next option I had was resetting the computer with hopes that the cot is a learn function. That was my thinking but I never got there.

 

[Markp]

If I seen you had messed with the 02’s I would say your not stock. Keeping the car cooler and running when it’s cooler is the only way for you. I wouldn’t think your car would be hitting cot in 1st or 2nd but definitely could be in 3rd if it’s hot. Stock mine was coming on above 5k in 3rd as it’s just part of the stock tuning. Cot is a calculation of different parameters, I was planning on acting like my car had no cats and adding sims for the 02. The next option I had was resetting the computer with hopes that the cot is a learn function. That was my thinking but I never got there.

Thank you for the info. I think I will just keep the car cool. Maybe even get crazy and ice the cats before my runs

 

[MaxCarnage]

So a bit of an update. I got my MPVI2 and smart access cable in today. Installed the smart access cable (posted up a how thread here). I did two quick highway pulls, just to see some data. Now I just need to get to a track to test the 1-2 shift. I also need to figure out what specific channels I should be logging for it. So if anyone has any suggestions (especially if you are HP Tuners experienced), I'm all ears. I'd be more than happy to share my highway pulls with anyone who knows how to read them too. My goals are to test for 1-2 shift hiccup and test for any knock (STKR/LTKR), and if I get any knock or hiccup, will an octane booster or race fuel help. I just want to make sure I'm data logging the right channels so I don't waste my time logging, lol.

I'm going to stay stock for quite awhile (like Mark and others I have stock PB goals). Eventually I plan on moving over to Curts FF tune.

 

[DRAGRCR]

X

 

[MaxCarnage]

I am not positive but I always thought the COT is a calculation and is not an actual tempature sensor. I think it comes on at higher speeds like 90- 100 MPH and onward. If you remove the cats the car makes considerably more power so you would only be considered stock tune. I would contact Curt for a channel list. Especially if he is going to eventually tune your car.

If I ever do install the Mid Pipes I will be using the Big Daddies Catted O2 foolers. I am very happy with my Power so I am pretty sure if I do unlock my PCM to fix the shift hiccup we will be leaving the timing and fuel alone. First thing I want to do tune wise is to just fix the hiccup with minimal other changes and see how it runs. After all I never wanted to unlock and tune in the first place.

I am still fighting with FCA. The latest conversation I told the guy bottom line I am keeping the car (because it hauls ass) and either you are going to fix it or I am going to fix it. He says if I unlock the PCM I am modding the car and my Warranty will be restricted. I say fine then you fix it. Duh! I told him I don't think you can fix it. But he wants to make some calls to Engineers or whatever and maybe make another appointment for a Dealer visit.
@Markp

I got a channels list from Curt and used it. Looks like it monitors mostly engine PIDs (It's the channels I used for 2 rolling pulls), so I just emailed him back to see if he had a channel list for transmission data.

Here's to hoping those engineers figure something out. We shouldn't have to tune out a problem like this. Factory tune problem, needs a factory fix.

 

[Markp]

I am not positive but I always thought the COT is a calculation and is not an actual tempature sensor. I think it comes on at higher speeds like 90- 100 MPH and onward. If you remove the cats the car makes considerably more power so you would only be considered stock tune. I would contact Curt for a channel list. Especially if he is going to eventually tune your car.

If I ever do install the Mid Pipes I will be using the Big Daddies Catted O2 foolers. I am very happy with my Power so I am pretty sure if I do unlock my PCM to fix the shift hiccup we will be leaving the timing and fuel alone. First thing I want to do tune wise is to just fix the hiccup with minimal other changes and see how it runs. After all I never wanted to unlock and tune in the first place.

I am still fighting with FCA. The latest conversation I told the guy bottom line I am keeping the car (because it hauls ass) and either you are going to fix it or I am going to fix it. He says if I unlock the PCM I am modding the car and my Warranty will be restricted. I say fine then you fix it. Duh! I told him I don't think you can fix it. But he wants to make some calls to Engineers or whatever and maybe make another appointment for a Dealer visit.
@Markp

If the COT is based on a calculation then how would mid pipes or removing the cats completely fool anything? I don't understand this. If this is in the computer it will happen cats or no cats would it not?

 

[EricG]

I am still fighting with FCA. The latest conversation I told the guy bottom line I am keeping the car (because it hauls ass) and either you are going to fix it or I am going to fix it. He says if I unlock the PCM I am modding the car and my Warranty will be restricted. I say fine then you fix it. Duh! I told him I don't think you can fix it. But he wants to make some calls to Engineers or whatever and maybe make another appointment for a Dealer visit.
@Markp

Been of course keeping up with your saga, think it would help if some of the rest of us start bringing this issue up with our dealer service departments? I'm trying to be patient, but I sure do want to have this resolved by the time I can go racing again...

How hard was it to talk about a buy-back from them? How do you go about that??? I did buy this car to go drag racing for sure, salesman knew it, people in the service department know it...

I'm sure we could get rid of this with aftermarket tuning, but I don't want to go that route unless I have to.