Live action from FUMANCHU182.

[16GoManGoHC2]

Scale of 1-10 you like the quick jack? When I built my shop I put in provisions for a lift, but haven't really needed one yet and now I'm spoiled by all the space.

Working on the car yesterday I was reminded I'm not 20 years old anymore though. Today I feel like I've been worked over with a base ball bat. All that laying on concrete and getting up and down 100 times, I'm too old for this LOL.

How old are you lol??? Just wait!!! It gets better and better with each decade lol.

 

[vortecd]

Scale of 1-10 you like the quick jack? When I built my shop I put in provisions for a lift, but haven't really needed one yet and now I'm spoiled by all the space.

Working on the car yesterday I was reminded I'm not 20 years old anymore though. Today I feel like I've been worked over with a base ball bat. All that laying on concrete and getting up and down 100 times, I'm too old for this LOL.

I hope you followed my instructions on the cradle lockouts doing one at a time. Pretty easy

 

[vortecd]

Not a lot of progress really. Got the triples in and the return run.
View attachment 77196 View attachment 77197
take note of the feed not being straight. Well come back to that. Had a osha violation, fitting failed while under the car on the quick jack. Heard a pop and ran like usian bolt to a safe spot.
View attachment 77198
frantically got wheels on and lowered it. Took the fittings apart, cleaned them, used this and some teflon tape, back in action
View attachment 77199 View attachment 77200
no leaks since…
Now getting back to the 45* fitting, fuck no, you have to lower the tank to get the hoses in and that 45 wont land the hose where its needed. Solution: take the -10 at the y block and just switch ends. Its perfectly fine for the 45 to hang from the Y block. Cant tell if fore ran out of fittings or if they are fuckwits… anyway return is run, however im smoked… did upgrade vise for making more an fittings
View attachment 77201 View attachment 77202
was really hoping to be on wiring already but it is what it is.

Like I said I needed a vise when I did mine and you have 2

 

[fumanchu182]

Scale of 1-10 you like the quick jack? When I built my shop I put in provisions for a lift, but haven't really needed one yet and now I'm spoiled by all the space.
Working on the car yesterday I was reminded I'm not 20 years old anymore though. Today I feel like I've been worked over with a base ball bat. All that laying on concrete and getting up and down 100 times, I'm too old for this LOL.

7 out of 10 till fittings leak. They are great, i can put a foam mat on thr floor if necessary or use a creeper, however I would suggest a lift. Too old to be squatting to lie on a creeper lol.

At the Dyno shop Saturday with my friends a guy was there who just redid his fuel system and he said within 2-3 days running 85 it leaked everywhere he used Teflon paste he had to take it all apart and use a special paste designed to handle the alcohol content in E 85

No AN fitting on the Fore fuel setup requires paste. Im confused, why would you use paste unless all his fittings were NPT? All mine are ORB or AN. In fact if you add paste and tell Fore they leaked, they’ll tell ya to get lost. The fittings that were fixes were the quick jack ones, not running E85 in that… yet… 😂

Like I said I needed a vise when I did mine and you have 2

I know a guy who is selling one… 😆

 

[jroyk]

How old are you lol??? Just wait!!! It gets better and better with each decade lol.

I live in a subdivision. I make an effort to get up off the concrete without looking like I’m 69 yo. Some attempts are more successful than others.

 

[2fast4u]

^^ I feel ya..spent most of the weekend replacing brake lines on my wife's Focus wagon. She loves that old POS, so I keep fixing any issues as they arise. At 66, it's an effort to get up and down a dozen or so times calculating bends so it fits like OEM.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

7 out of 10 till fittings leak. They are great, i can put a foam mat on thr floor if necessary or use a creeper, however I would suggest a lift. Too old to be squatting to lie on a creeper lol.

No AN fitting on the Fore fuel setup requires paste. Im confused, why would you use paste unless all his fittings were NPT? All mine are ORB or AN. In fact if you add paste and tell Fore they leaked, they’ll tell ya to get lost. The fittings that were fixes were the quick jack ones, not running E85 in that… yet… 😂
I know a guy who is selling one… 😆

He had some pipe fittings I guess some where. I though the lines you had in picture looked like hydraulic lines. Yes, agree, no paste needed on AN fittings, or brass to brass either really.

 

[fumanchu182]

Finally done! Install completed. Need to power up the car and make sure no lines leak, thats a tomorrow thing. Once happy with no leaks I’ll finalize the wiring in the trunk.

FC3 location. Once finalized I will velcro it into position.

You have to tap pin A on the harness to power the regular pump. Other pumps come on with hobbes switch after 5psi.
All the connectors are in. You’ll also tap the old harness for the fuel level sending unit.
Lines routed over the tank.
On removing the old OST system got E85 in my cuts. Btw electrical tape works for big gashes…
What I did to make sure I was not crushing the lines.

Capped off the old system and removed the line.

full OST plug n play system. What do you think a fair market price would be in for sale?

Im excited. Almost ready for the weekend, got a nice new bypass on tol that needs testing.

 

[jonx96]

Prolly 900 for the pnp pump.

 

[vortecd]

Ask $1000 and come down if it isn't selling

 

[Linda's Hell Cat]

Nice Work @fumanchu182
I think you should put the Electrical Tape on before you work to prevent the Big Gashes

Linda

 

[fumanchu182]

Prolly 900 for the pnp pump.

Ask $1000 and come down if it isn't selling

Thank you gents!

Nice Work @fumanchu182
I think you should put the Electrical Tape on before you work to prevent the Big Gashes

Linda

that would be interesting, electrical tape gloves

 

[Linda's Hell Cat]

Thank you gents!


that would be interesting, electrical tape gloves

I'm sure you could event something.

 

[fumanchu182]

So at a loss, can't get the pumps to power on. Lets talk some theory from the FSM about the FPCM.

The Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) is secured to the right inner quarter panel behind the right rear wheel​

housing in the trunk compartment. The module is concealed behind the trunk side trim.​

​

When the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) receives a 'Start' or 'Run' signal from the ignition; It energizes the​

Fuel Pump relay which sends a continuous 12 volt supply to the Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM). The PCM​

also sends a control signal directly to the FPCM which regulates the Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal that​

will be sent to the Fuel Pump Module. The PWM signal (duty cycle) will vary from 10-100% depending on the​

input of the Fuel Rail Pressure sensor and other engine demands. The PCM receives a PWM signal from the​

FPCM representing the state of all inputs and outputs of the FPCM. This is a Constant Pressure Fuel system​

which means any Delta Pressure test performed on the Fuel Pump would show a continuous pressure (regardless​

of the changes in PWM). If a pressure sensor fails or other failures are present; The duty cycle goes to Limp​

mode (100%) to maintain fuel pressure​

So theoretically I should see 12v constant stream from one of the pins on the harness connecting to the FPCM and this should be enough to be the trigger for the pumps. However when starting the car I never get a 12v power reading on any of the pins. Following the instructions here:

I tapped into pin A and used it in the trigger for remote 1 as pictured here:

However pin A never sees above .23X volts. So I started trouble shooting. Checked the relay, this turned out to be fine. Checked all connections for continuity, everything is fine. Checked power harness for 12v going into FC3, everything was fine. Maybe I had a bad tap, checked the tap and everything was fine. So the only thing I'm thinking of is that the FPCM and pin A, cannot be used to power the remote 1 terminal and that a relay would have to be configured as follows:


If anyone has wired in one of these units before your help would be appreciated.

 

[fumanchu182]

The only thing I can think of is to demand 100% of the pump all of the time to artifically boost the voltage?

 

[fumanchu182]

So I spoke with a man much wiser than thou. Turns out my hunch about commanding more artificially in the tune was correct. However here are the steps to set base fuel pressure for MAP REFERENCED CONFIGURATIONS.

Jump the relay as if you were going to empty the tank.

Once pumps are running adjust to desired PSI. I set mine for base + boost, 80psi at WOT according to tune. Then I removed the relay. Then I fabricobbled a jumper to jump the hobbs switch to emulate boost.

With all three pumps running it should only jump 2-3 PSI per Fore’s instructions and it did just that.

From here you back it down to 80psi and set the jam nut. The thing that excites me the most is no leaks.

With all three pumps on it sounds like a raging inferno! Ill update tomorrow on what tables I adjust in the tune!

 

[fumanchu182]

Also I forgot to include why the pumps need to have more voltage commanded. The FPCM will lower voltage it it doesnt need to stay there to keep the desired pressure level. I’m debating on just commanding 80psi all the time and removing any check engine lights that pop.

 

[Speedy!]

I'm missing something, but I've not fooled with one of these before so.....

Doesn't your factory FPCM control pump (1) and then your Fore pump controller run pumps (2) and (3)? If so I'm not following why you'd have to mess with fuel pressure in the tune. The aux pumps wouldn't activate until you're above hobbs pressure (5psi) and the primary pump would run all the time and get pressure from the PCM I'd think? Maybe I'm missing something with the regulator on this deal.

 

[fumanchu182]

I'm missing something, but I've not fooled with one of these before so.....

Doesn't your factory FPCM control pump (1) and then your Fore pump controller run pumps (2) and (3)? If so I'm not following why you'd have to mess with fuel pressure in the tune. The aux pumps wouldn't activate until you're above hobbs pressure (5psi) and the primary pump would run all the time and get pressure from the PCM I'd think? Maybe I'm missing something with the regulator on this deal.

In a level 4 setup from Fore the FPCM does not control your primary pump anymore. The FC3 is the controller found here:

These are the ports on it:
Remote 1
Remote 2
Pump 1 - Pos/Neg
Pump 2 - Pos/Neg
Pump 3 - Pos/Neg

Remote 1 controls the primary pump and uses a voltage above 6.5v as a trigger. Remote 2 controls pumps 2 and 3 off of a 6.5v and higher trigger as well, this is supplied by the hobbs switch above 5pis of boost. Now back to pump 1. The standard installation is to use pin A on the FPCM harness to trigger Remote 1, this is unlike R/T, Scat Packs, non boosted SRTs where there is just the voltage supply and that's that. The FPCM is a PWM based unit and I believe I was mistaken in what I said before but pin A is not PWM a different pin is (I believe it to be pin D). The issues I was having was setting the base pressure was due to the following, me thinks...

The fuel pump relay is controlled by pin 73 the "FUEL PUMP RELAY CTRL" (FPRC, cause typing). When you put the car in RUN, this pin is energized thus powering pin 86 on the relay, thus activating the coil, but it only happens for a second. So Fore's instructions to put the car in RUN to set the base pressure is false, severely false. So to simulate the fuel pumps being on you bridge the relay pins like you are emptying the fuel tank, this allowed me to set the base pressure (for map configurations that's base + boost = 80psi at WOT). Then from there I bridged the hobbs sensor and adjusted as normal.

The reason I was concerned about the FPCM is because I believed pin A to be PWM but now after looking at all the schematics I understand all the pins on it and do not believe pin A to be PWM but just the relay is not energized by the PCM. However a man much wiser than me said that I may need to command more PSI:

If using pin A, you'll have to adjust the tune so that it provides more consistent voltage to the FC3 controller while the car is actually running. Stock settings will downvolt when pressure is higher than it's targeting for whatever condition. Set desired pressures higher than what you expect to see under different loads.

I think this means that the relay could be turning on and off to drop voltage if it isn't necessary. I will monitor the situation with logging and report back.

 

[fumanchu182]

We have lift off. The map reference config worked. Set to 80psi on setup, then vacuum pulled it down to approximately 66 psi. Im okay with this. Now to drive around and test it.