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Stock Fuel Rails, why they don’t keep up

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Thread Starter #1,281
Me be time to shut off NN for you with those things.
I’ll be starting up on the 2.4 blower with the 2.74 Satera pulley, need to see if the blower was dragging the engine rpm up or not, this will prove that yay or nay. Hoping to test such with little to no changes to the tune so it’s just solid pulley verse a super free spinning clutched pulley. You think the tune as is running the Whipple last will do unchanged??
Then we can try NN when we get back to the Whipple??
 


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Thread Starter #1,282
Time to get this party started!!
1FC96161-71B3-4BE8-BE26-5EE35522E9EF.jpeg
Only delay is going to have to let them warm up to room temperature before I put them on the block which is ready and waiting
99F93C98-9370-4F82-B0A3-42E9F1D5DD51.jpeg 15132498-4FEB-42B9-9EE3-9E540B80F31E.jpeg
 


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Thread Starter #1,283
BEAUTIFUL WORK!!
80BB4F3F-3531-4A66-A1AA-85573ADAA334.jpeg 896597A2-2FB0-4204-923E-B40A3537306D.jpeg F581AC85-9772-48BB-A228-91DC5DDC03DB.jpeg 57D78939-F702-411B-BA34-3378FC43CAFE.jpeg E78C23EE-CE71-4B67-9B71-D4CDC0ED6582.jpeg 36FD1E6C-7FB4-4A8C-9F71-CD40D4C3C269.jpeg 214359B3-9A55-44BF-9741-E82C36351DDC.jpeg 49689053-DD25-4A88-A09F-1E434037119E.jpeg 3E260176-27D8-45B8-917C-92080A0CF912.jpeg 71C0D507-E119-4A30-829F-F74EEC7D3E6C.jpeg
 


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Thread Starter #1,284
Warming up by the fire for later :)

89158C51-CF5D-4AF0-9744-E9CCE0E303BE.jpeg
753A0E09-CCAA-4AB4-82C0-D69D17E79EB6.jpeg
 


jonx96

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You arent dont yet? It is been a half hour :p
 


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Did you take measurements before to compare how much they opened them up? I'm sure most is internal
 


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Take measurements before and after you warm them up… lol
 


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OP
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Thread Starter #1,289
No, didn’t take measurements lol, but I did compare to gaskets lol
Just got done torquing, 125 ft lbs twice I’m sweating lol
5038984F-9528-48BB-BA1D-7D0DA4A7F1C8.jpeg
 


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Thread Starter #1,290
Take measurements before and after you warm them up… lol
Really no need to measure, you can tell by eye the difference!!

Before

ED5CAA13-4556-4C7A-9AB2-022C7F4833D8.jpeg 97E34FC1-C488-47AC-AE27-5D3FC8701B26.jpeg
After, ie now


E582C20D-515D-41B8-9BF7-B129C37ED96B.jpeg
image.jpg

The pocket above the valve is about the same size as the valve now!!

Replaced valve guides and all. Silicon Bronze valve guides, 5 angle valve job, back cut on the valves, TOP SHELF PRO work here no doubt. NICE work THITEK Craig!!
 


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Are you able to put studs in then the head or do you have to set the head on then put studs in?
 


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Thread Starter #1,292
Are you able to put studs in then the head or do you have to set the head on then put studs in?
Put 2 small studs in the top for alignment help and set head in place then put the studs in, they have hex sockets in the ends so pretty easy and quick. Did a final Tq to 140 from recommendation from @Hatermkr per AJ I believe as that’s where the studs came from. Will hit them again once more before putting valve train on.

74D6C8FC-5D88-4749-9196-2244D2DE0D75.jpeg
 


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are those your new ARP CA625 studs?
 


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Thread Starter #1,294

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Sweeeet!
 


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Thread Starter #1,296
Well today is leak down test, yes again lol. I want to see if valve job changed anything. Then it’s blower time! The 2.4 with the Satera Rings of Hell clutched pulley with a 2.74 ring.
Doing the heads in the car was no fun. I chose to not put the exhaust manifolds on before putting the heads on to save weight and be able to land them exactly on the dowels without touching anything. Well that worked, getting the driver side header on pretty easy but the passenger side was a REAL BITCH!! Yesterday was pretty much consumed by putting the headers on and the exhaust system on and then last night came the valve train, checked all the pushrods for straightness, all good, set the clearance on the STANKIE valve train stabilizers and then the valve covers and filled her with cheap 0w40 PUP for startup and flush. Also bled the oil system and made sure fresh clean oil was up to the valve train. Today is more fun work up too only I’m hoping lol. my plans are to just fill the coolant system with straight distilled water. Start it up let it heat up and then dump it through the block drains and the radiator drain to get any oily crap out of the coolant system and then fill it with Mopar purple stuff in maybe take it for a hit.

A2E5D1C4-1760-4938-AB4C-F1581C888EA1.jpeg 28A7672C-43F4-4E39-8492-FF6A1E184F20.jpeg BCC5B096-A786-4A1F-83D1-35A5264253B7.jpeg 90916EE9-FF38-443D-BCAD-D5050856E69D.jpeg 38AD04E7-B5F0-47B9-956A-4E5933DA6B88.jpeg

See the oil on the 2 rocker stands each side? That’s what oils the top end.

C53E07BA-7CA3-4A19-A782-4DFE096D7F68.jpeg 953E4D6F-3AC6-4320-A24E-A0CE1F484D0F.jpeg
 


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Thread Starter #1,297
Any reason you have not switched to redeye fuel rails?
I dont like the idea of cutting up $300 fuel rails.
Will be putting on ported Redeye Fuel Rails this time around!! We’ll see if they help with fuel delivery or not compared to ported regular Hellcat fuel rails or not.
image.jpg

Ported out sizes match what was done with regular HC rails

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 


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Thread Starter #1,298
Did leak down test, all cylinders about the same at 3% so valve leakage was not a major issue but they do seal 100% now. Installed all the plugs, gap is .021”

Well in test fitting the blower insulator plates I found out how far opened up the inlet of each intake port is, about a mm or more per side had to be milled out of them.

658C75F3-266F-45CD-9DAD-DF571C833358.jpeg B8D26C66-B2E5-4B16-A3A5-7E32578E2A91.jpeg

It’s ready to put the 2.4 blower back on, I have to remove the Whipple hoses so tomorrow comes playing with my favorite, antifreeze :(
Oil is full, will vacuum fill the coolant system with straight distilled water tomorrow and hopefully start her up.
Just cleaned by ID injectors ready to go back in, tomorrow should go easy I hope, it’s been bust ass the last 3 days on this, I’m ready to be done!!
 


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You're having better luck than I am.
 


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Thread Starter #1,300
You're having better luck than I am.
Why is that? What you up too??
 




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